Journey

Panama & Colombia: Tastes of Latin Culture

April, 2024, we traveled in Panama and Colombia for a 2 ½ weeks and savored this bit of Latin life! Immediately after college, Larry lived for two years in Venezuela. During those years, he visited several other Latin/South American countries. He fell in love with the Latin culture and brought that love into our relationship. That appreciation is threaded into our lives. For example, our home is dubbed Casa de Paz and much of the artwork throughout has been discovered on our travels to Latin/South America. We welcome any opportunity to travel in that region of the world and to experience its influence in our home—and country.

 Panama: Papaya and Plantains

This trip included several days presenting and participating at the Global Social Work and Social Development conference*, held in Panama City, Panama. The conference took place at the convention center across from the hotel where we stayed. It was a delightful experience of connecting with inspiring, eclectic colleagues from around the world and experiencing the exuberant, hospitable Panamanian culture.

Before the conference, we flew into Panama City, stayed one night and then took an Uber to a resort in the Gamboa Rain Forest for a few days. As one of our guidebooks said, “Panama’s biodiversity is three times higher than the U.S., Canada, and Europe combined.” It was such a delight to experience a bit of it: Tiny frogs, beautiful butterflies, lush forest trails. Oh, and Snakes! But, also, Sloths! 😊Reading, reflecting, resting in the hammock on our balcony—which felt like a cozy rain forest nest—was the epitome of buena vida (good life). 

Returning to Panama City a day before the conference began, we took a day tour of areas of the city and to the Panama Canal. This relatively brief tour was enlightening. Conceptualizing, initiating, building, and navigating (literally, geo-politically, commercially, and so forth!) this canal is complex and has reverberations we’d never considered. We learned that Panama is actually one of the most diverse countries in the world—in part, because of colonization and, also, the confluence of people coming to work on the canal.  This (relatively) tiny country has a BIG influence.

So, we know we should encourage you to go to Panama for all kinds of incredibly intellectual and edifying reasons. But, here’s the truth: Our most indelible memories will be of the delicious fresh papaya and plantains. Back home, we try to replicate them but it’s just not the same.

Colombia: Coffee & Coconut

After the conference, we flew to Cartegena, Colombia. This port city has busy beach areas. But, we opted to stay at a lovely hotel, Voilá Centro Histórico. It had a fun vibe and hospitable staff, and was ideally situated in the heart of the walkable Old Town district. As is common in the city, the hotel had a roof-top restaurant—it catches the breeze! We had a scrumptious dinner there the first night. And, each day, the “best part of waking up” 😊 was popping up there for tasty breakfast and the Colombian coffee in our cups each morning.

As a walled city, Cartegena, has intriguing history. We explored the exuberant art and street scenes of the central and surrounding areas. We visited the fortress (Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas) and convent (La Popa Monastery)—both for the historic and cultural importance, and their views of the city. Mainly, we simply enjoyed BEING there—the vibe is uniquely Latin; the people hospitable; the culture vibrant.

Colombia is known for its emeralds! We had our priorities straight and instead invested in coffee and Erlene’s new obsession with limonada de coco (coconut limeade). The weather was gorgeous and HOT! Stopping for a refreshing limonada daily (okay, twice daily!) as well as an afternoon siesta became cultural/survival requirements! 😊 (When in Colombia…)

Since being home, we’re trying to replicate the limeade—it needs that Cartegena something-something! Tambien, the afternoon siestas keep us in touch with our Latin life!

Latin Culture: Taste it!

We hope this brief travelogue gives you a taste for traveling to Panama and Colombia, specifically, and to Latin/South America more broadly. We want to address briefly the cautions regarding safety that we heard when we told folks we were traveling to this area of the world.

Certainly, violence in these countries is real and is reported (and amplified by xenophobic agendas). However, any guns we saw were held by police present in heavily guarded tourist areas. We never saw some rando Rambo toting his guns into KFC—as happens at home. We didn’t fear for a mass shooting, even though we were frequently in places with lots of people—unlike in the U.S., where one cannot go to the mall, concert, religious setting, or school without those fears. We read an article that discussed an increase of guns in Panama. Guess where these guns originate? Bet you can get it in one: UNITED STATES. The U.S. has the dubious and dreadful distinctions of being one of the primary exporters of  weapons and having more guns than people.

So, of course, it’s important to be aware, but don’t let the xenophobic fears keep you from traveling! And, let’s, please, get more serious about sensible gun legislation at home!

Enjoy the sampling of photos from our trip; check out additional travel resources to plan your trips to Panama, Colombia, and other Latin/South American countries! Just know that some things—such as the beautiful terrain, exuberant culture, and delectable tastes of papaya, plantains, coffee, and, ooooh, that coconut limeade—can only be authentically be experienced there. Travel: Taste! Savor! And, make Latin culture part of your smorgasbord of life.

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*Social work colleagues, the Global Social Work Conference (#swsd2026) takes place every two years in varying places across the globe. It’s a wonderful opportunity to see the world and connect with inspiring colleagues. The next one is in 2026 in Nairobi, Kenya! We’re already planning to go; join us!

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Finland & the Baltic Countries

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In mid-May to mid-June 2023, we traveled for three weeks to Finland and the Baltic countries of Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. If you get a chance to visit these countries, we highly recommend you say, yeS! Below, we try to capture a glimmer of the “S” factors that make travel in these areas of the world such a delight! With shared GO Global enthusiasm, we hope you GO to this part of the Globe and let us know what YOU think!

We drove from our Louisville home to stay overnight with travel pals in Chicago, in order to have direct flights to and from Helsinki (8 hours). We arrived in Helsinki where we stayed several days, then went to Tallinn for a few days. There, we rented a car to meander for a couple of weeks down through Latvia and Lithuania. After our visit in Lithuania, we drove back (in one day) to Pärnu, Estonia for an overnight. Then, the next day we drove to Tallinn to return the car and take the ferry to Finland. We stayed overnight in Helsinki, and flew back to Chicago. Of course, we had some minor travel blips; but, overall, this trip was remarkably easy and enjoyable.

Happy Finland

Sisu, Satisfaction, & Social Policies

Easy Estonia (Eesti!)

Saunas, Spuds, & Suds

Lovely Latvia

Seas-the-Day, Honor History, & Learn from the Past

Last-But-Not-Least Lithuania

Serenity, Seek, & Find

Solidarity & Safety

Final Thoughts on Flags, Fobs, Fear, & Freedom

Book a Trip to Iceland—It Will All Work Out, Happily

For our first international travel since the Pandemic, in July, 2022, we decided to go to Iceland for 12 days. Iceland had been high on our “Bucket List” since we read a chapter in The Geography of Bliss many years ago. We’re so happy we went! On this trip we discovered the wee and wise book, Why are Icelanders so Happy? In addition to synthesizing other information, Heiorun Olafsdottir & Hrefna Guomundsdottir interviewed 14 ordinary Icelanders, as “Happiness Experts,” to glean answers to that question. 

As we’ve done for every European trip since our first one in 1990, we used Rick Steves’ travel book as our primary planning guide. (If you haven’t discovered Rick Steves, we highly recommend his extensive, accessible, and excellent travel resources.) We also did “research” through watching Nordic noir television shows set in Iceland. And, predictably, Erlene read lots—from the classic Independent People (intense!) to Snug in Iceland (cozy!)—and still has a long TBR list. Larry, the ultimate personal travel guide, sketched out the itinerary, scoped out deals (Iceland is expensive!), and made arrangements. Erlene had veto power of anything that might involve riding a bus across bumpy terrain for interminable hours or staying in “rustic” accommodations (Age+Experience=Nope!).

Nature, Nature, Nature

 A happy traveler in Iceland will be touched by…unspoiled nature.” (Sveinn, “Happiness Expert”)

We debated whether to do the abbreviated Golden Circle or do the whole Ring Road experience. We opted for the whole Ring! And, we’re so happy we did.

We flew into Reykjavik, picked up our rental car, and stayed a couple nights at a cozy AirB&B just outside the city. After a couple days exploring this fine, friendly city, we left for the grand tour. We meandered for the next ten days up and around the island, arriving back in Reykjavik for an overnight stay before flying home. The Ring Road was an ideal “road trip.” Our itinerary—developed from an amalgam of the guidebook recommendations and our “research”—took us to quaint villages, scenic views, and serene spaces.

Mostly, we immersed in the natural splendor of Iceland. Exuberant waterfalls, fun lava fields, chilly glaciers, interesting volcanoes, beautiful beaches, ubiquitous horses—indescribable, immersive beauty. Literally, we were immersed when we visited the Myvatn Nature Bath. Oftentimes, as we drove along or walked around, we felt like we were immersed IN a nature documentary. How could this scene not be part of a nature film? The word “awesome” is overused; but, this term most aptly describes our most prominent experience.

Books, Books, Books

“Better to go barefoot than without a book” (Icelandic saying)

A primary reason we were especially eager to visit Iceland is because it’s ranked one of the happiest countries in the world and ranked #1 on the Global Peace Index. In his witty and insightful book, The Geography of Bliss, Weiner writes about his travels to the highest and lowest ranked happy countries. Each chapter analyzes the reasons for each country’s (un)happy status.

For Iceland, happiness is in the books. Icelanders love books—and all things related. Iceland publishes more books per capita than any other country. As one illustration of this bibliophilia, Icelanders celebrate Jolabokaflod. On December 24th, books are exchanged and people settle in for a cozy evening to devour reading and consume chocolate. For the last several years, we’ve happily participated in this tradition. Erlene especially loved this bookish aspect of Iceland, because she could convince Larry that “Going to Bookstores and Libraries” was requisite for a happy travel experience.  

Weiner writes, “for Icelanders…language is an immense source of joy...Everything wise and wonderful about this quirky little nation flows from its language” (p. 156). We often note that language both describes and determines our realities. The word happiness has the Icelandic word, “happ” in it. Icelandic language, from hello to good-bye, is saturated in happiness. Literally, their “hello” (komdu saell) translates as “come happy” and their parting wish, vertu saell, means “go happy.” So, in Iceland, you meet happiness, coming and going—and all points in-between!

Equity, Agency, and Attitude

“We can decide to be happy” (Erla, “Happiness Expert”)

At least in part because they’re all so literate—and their language is “egalitarian and free of pretense” (Weiner, p. 157)—Icelanders have incredible equity, connectivity, and life satisfaction. Icelanders are just happy. But, they’re not just happy. That is, their happiness isn’t merely happenstance (Get it! 😊HAPPenstance). It’s embedded in particular personal characteristics and in societal factors of justice.

In their small, but informative and engaging, book Why are Icelanders so Happy?, Olafsdottir and Gudmundsdottir succinctly articulate a range of factors contributing to Icelanders’ Happiness. In addition to immersion in nature and books, Icelanders are physically active and have strong social bonds (including lotsa sex and singing—though presumably not necessarily simultaneously!). As a society, Iceland prioritizes education, environment, equity, and social supports. The country has no military; violent crime is exceedingly low (Peace!) Employment is high; education affordable; health care accessible.

Notably, Icelanders have significant civic engagement. As one important indicator, in recent elections, 80+ percentage of the Icelandic voting age population voted. In comparison, in the U.S., this statistic is often below 50%--with recent years “soaring” to the 60+ percentage. In the 2008 financial crisis, Icelanders protested; the government held the banks accountable, raised taxes on the wealthiest, and Icelanders remained happy. In contrast, countries like the U.S. bailed out the banks and made the populace pay for it—literally and in happiness indicators.

In 1975, 90% of the women in Iceland went on strike and, subsequently, achieved status as one of the most gender equitable countries in the world. In her engaging memoir, Names for the Sea—Strangers in Iceland, Sarah Moss, an English professor, describes her year of teaching in Iceland. Moss observes, “There are no stay-at-home mothers in Iceland…Everyone takes nine months’ parental leave…there is a forty-hours a week of highly subsidized, high-quality childcare…Students can have babies without undue financial hardship…Gender discrimination…is simply not an issue in Iceland. I have a year’s holiday from the guilt that blights the lives of working mothers at home” (p. 78).

As conveyed in Why are Icelanders so Happy?, Icelanders trust their government, in general. And, in large part, citizens accept their responsibility and exercise their agency to hold their government officials accountable to earn their trust and promote their well-being. In essence, Icelanders just decide—individually and collectively—to be happy.

Petta Redast

Don’t worry; It will all work out (Icelandic motto)

Iceland has a national motto that is ideal for traveling—and all of life, really. Petta redast means “Don’t worry. It will all work out.” This attitude is more complex than simply a lackadaisical approach to life. This ubiquitous attitude actually engages a growth mindset, which lowers stress and promotes well-being.

Weiner sub-titled his chapter on Iceland: Happiness is Failure. In the chapter, he explains that in Iceland, “failure” is not stigmatized—actually, it’s normalized. For example, people are expected to try different jobs, hobbies, interests, approaches. As noted earlier, everyone is writing a novel—not necessarily with success being measure by publication. As Weiner further expounds, “If you are free to fail, you are free to try” (p. 162). And, this trying is valued in and of itself—not like in the U.S. where the “trying”/failure is only valued if it leads to “success.” As Olafsdottir & Gudmundsdottir elaborate, petta redast encapsulates embracing the unexpected. Icelanders “seem to be hardwired to make the best of things and come up with new solutions on the spot. It helps to believe that something wonderful can happen, has happened, and will happen again ” (p. 78). (Iceland’s such as HAPPening place!)

They also believe in elves and hidden people; so, there’s that. 😊

Reflecting on our awesome experience in Iceland, here are some practical pointers for embracing the unexpected. If you imbibe, drink the beer; there’s something special about it—perhaps it’s the pure, clean water. No matter the time of year, and even if you’re not an outdoorsy person, bring rain gear, a wool hat, and good hiking shoes. Don’t trust GPS and pay attention when the guidebook indicates that your route includes gravel roads. Plan to picnic; it saves money and keeps you out in nature. And, believe them when they say, “It’s windy!”  

Regardless, don’t worry. It will all work out. Just book the trip to Iceland. You’ll be happy you did.

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GOGlobalSW Expanded

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Welcome to the redesigned and updated GO Global Social Work webpage!

Initially, we developed this webpage to communicate and share our adventure on the Semester at Sea 2019 Spring voyage. Now, under the Journey section of the webpage, we continue to share thoughts and photos from our travels. As well, we write about travel as a lifestyle. We look forward to, post-Coronavirus, new adventures and connections as we explore the world.

We expanded the GOGlobalSW page to include commentary and thoughts, from a global social work perspective, about current issues. We provide reflections “as the mood hits us.” These observations are under the Reflection section of the webpage.

In addition, we started a scholarship at Western Kentucky University. The GO Global Scholarship supports social work students in international learning experiences. We will post about recipients of the scholarship. We invite you to support social work students by contributing to the scholarship. The Scholarship section of the webpage includes a link for more information and to donate, if interested.

We also invite you to follow us on Twitter (@GOGlobalSW). When we share a new entry on the webpage, we will post it on Twitter. If you wish to receive an email with our latest posts, please contact us at goglobalsw@gmail.com.

Social work is a life-changing profession. We advocate a meta-practice paradigm, which includes promoting an international perspective that contributes to positive and systemic world change. Join us as we explore the world through thought-provoking reflections, human connections, and diverse global perspectives. GO Global!

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Traveling While Staying Home During the COVID-19 Crisis: Panoramic Views – Pandemic Connections

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“Travel is a mindset, a lifestyle, a way of being (in) the world” GO Global

This blog is mostly about travel. Our travel philosophy is encapsulated in the above tag-line. It’s a good thing we believe that, because for the foreseeable future, “we ain’t going nowhere”…at least not geographically!

April 2019: We were ending our 4 months of sailing around the globe on a ship surrounded by 800-plus people. We documented that Semester at Sea (SAS) journey to 10 countries on this blog site.  

April 2020: We are sequestered in our home, Casa de Paz, due to the COVID-19 pandemic. We don’t venture much beyond our daily neighborhood walks. And, yet, we are connected and content—in part, because we are travelers!

“Yes”: A State-ment of Contentment

A SAS student gave us a high compliment in a recent note, which captures a travel lifestyle. She said, “I love how you have built your lives…balanced, happy, consistent, open—'Yes’ (if ‘yes’ could be an adjective.)”  

In many circumstances, and certainly now, we recall the Philippians 4:11 lesson from our Baptist-brined upbringing: “I have learned in whatever state I am in, therewith, to be content.” How do we, as travelers, say, “Yes!” to our current state of geographic grounding? Heart and Art—and the stories they tell!

Both of us enjoy reading—but, Erlene, especially. Every book opens another portal. Being home means more reading time and I serendipitously selected Geography of the Heart from our bookshelves replete with choices. Fenton Johnson‘s compelling, beautifully-written memoir describes his journey with Larry Rose, falling in love and traversing their different, yet converging, worlds. Fenton is the 9th child in a Catholic family from rural Kentucky; Larry is an only child of Holocaust survivors, raised in California. They had three years together—deepened by a shared love of travel, especially France—before Larry died from HIV/AIDS. From the book’s dedication: “Reading is an unsurpassed interactive act, and serious readers among the least acknowledged and appreciated of revolutionaries.” Yes! Reading is a revolutionary, interactive way to traverse the world’s geography of the heart.

Similarly, films/movies provide another vehicle for traveling, whilst home. Watching a film set in places we’ve traveled lets us revisit those scenes and, hopefully, translate the stories in a cultural context. Likewise, watching films set in places we’ve yet to visit amplifies the joy of anticipating new horizons. Social media, in all its forms, when accessed with a balanced attitude, connect us. Media make the world smaller and more vast—whether sailing the ocean or sitting on the sofa.

Traveling at Home through Art

As we’ve shared before, we intentionally make travel part of “everyday” life. Our enjoyment of cooking and wine allows us to taste, smell, and savor some of our travel memories. Our home abounds with remnants and reminders of our travels—both abroad and closer to home. Each room in Casa de Paz has a theme that reflects parts of the world we’ve visited.

For instance, our Kiwi Cozy Breakfast Nook is defined by three pieces by an artist we met in Queenstown, New Zealand. The Ooh La La Guest Room has a Voila theme, with décor from France and similar pieces from both travels and everyday discoveries. The Llama Mama Gallo Room (aka Dining Room) is festooned with artistry from South American travels, including dishes purchased for Larry’s birthday in 2005. The room is guarded by a gaudy gallo (rooster), which held a special place in Erlene’s mother’s home. A colorful tablecloth selected at a silk market in Fez, Morocco makes meals Fez-tive. 😊 Because of our delightful lesson from a Vietnamese tour guide, Funny, the guest hall bathroom is playfully dubbed The Happy Room, blessed by the bubbly Buddha brought from Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).  

Every photo captures a memory. Each art piece has a story. The pottery from many places we’ve traveled reminds of the myriad Earthy connections. While we’re grounded in our home, we can enjoy a gallery that evokes stories, promises new adventures, and solidifies connections.

Joy & Loss; Grief & Gratitude

In traveling, we often make connections, quickly and deeply, with people we may never see again in person. Yet, our hearts are changed indelibly; our worldviews are widened irrevocably—sometimes by a single encounter; other times through a more extended cultural exchange. The physical absence of people with whom we share connection is both ongoing grief and internalized joy experienced by travelers.

Every place we’ve traveled, we’ve encountered social situations and personal stories that bring pain, anger, sorrow. Every place we visit, we’re sad to leave. Our last day in Lima, Peru, the skies erupted with rain, seeming to exude our emotions. Our wonderful guide, Emilcar, with whom we had shared many days, explained that the country was crying and sad to see us go. The Semester at Sea village, when leaving any of the ports and, certainly, dispersing at our final port in Amsterdam, cried an ocean of tears. And, yet, this ocean is necessary in creating salty, joyful, life-sustaining tributaries of travel-home.

Gratitude is the arc that connects our experiences. Amidst this Coronavirus crisis, we are sad about the lack of physical connection, along with delayed or denied experiences. We’re concerned about the crisis, those most drastically affected, and the terrible tentacles of its origins and lasting impact. We’re incensed about the ineptitude, ego, and greed that multiplies this crisis, unnecessarily and immorally. Yet, we are grateful for every element of home; we are grateful for every travel memory, story, and possibility that sustains our spirits. Yes, our days are suffused with gratitude for a way of being (in) the world that connects us, spiritually and socially, through a geography of the heart--even when physically separate.

Pandemic: A Panoramic View for Earth Day

We’re in a pandemic. The Coronavirus is showing us, unequivocally, that the globe is connected. This particular crisis, which is life-threatening, is fed by evil intent and corruption; it is inflamed by pernicious privilege pitted against common good. It spreads through fear and divisiveness: Dis-ease. It conjures pandemonium—which, literally, means an abode of all demons.  

What if we translated—actually, redeemed—the deeper meaning of pandemic? Pandemic simply means “prevalent over the world.” In Latin, “Pan” means “All” or “of Everything.” The Latin root of “demic” is “demos” (the same root for democracy), which literally means “among a people.” What if we chose not a pandemic of crisis, but a pandemic of opportunity?

What if, fellow travelers, we recognize and reclaim that we are “All” of “Everything”, connected amongst ourselves? What if we realized that, wherever we are in in the world, we are home to each other and with Mother Earth and Mother Ocean?

This week marks the 50th Anniversary of Earth Day—a time set aside to solidify our connections with and responsibility to our shared planet. What if, beginning now, on this new (Earth) Day, we take a panoramic view of our shared World? What if we channel our travel mindset to say “Yes” to a geography of the heart: Hope, possibility, peace, love, and just healing our home-planet? Wouldn’t that be Pandemic, Ya’ll?!

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Reflection on a Journey: Happy Connections

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“Happiness is a way of travel—not a destination.” (Roy M. Goodman)

Happy New Year! As we enter 2020, we reflect on where we were this time last year. As this blog documented, in January 2019 we began the trip of a lifetime, four months on Semester at Sea (SAS). As depicted in the photos below of the first and last days of our journey, in some ways, we didn’t change. 😊 Yes, we did change clothes, though not much, as we’ve learned the value of packing light and not buying stuff. (Unless, it’s Happy Buddhas!) But, we are indelibly changed…

Happy Travels—through Life

“Traveling—it leaves you speechless, then it turns you into a storyteller.” (Ibn Battuta)

In one of our first blog posts, we shared that Gretchen Rubin in The Happiness Project identifies four aspects of happiness: Anticipate, Savor, Express, and Recall (p. 107). Rubin concludes that all four facets are necessary for the optimal “happy time.” Undoubtedly, these aspects of happiness apply to every day. 

Being intentional about anticipating, savoring, expressing, and recalling can make an “ordinary” day extraordinary. Anticipating the pleasure of seeing our grands, savoring time with them, expressing this pleasure to them, and recalling these times deepens our joy. Anticipating the pleasure of a daily walk (on the golf course or local park); savoring the moment of muted clouds, brilliant sun, trilling bird; expressing gratitude or pleasure to the Universe or a companion; and recalling the experience, through sharing a story or silently remembering: All these facets make the experience linger and infuse into our spirits, creating deeper happiness.

We find that of all the dimensions of life, travel engages these aspects of happiness in some of the most intense and meaningful ways.

Truly a World-Wide Web of Connections

“The Ocean Connects us all; It has no borders” (from the documentary, Blue)

As we write this blog, we have reunited with our beloved ocean and are on a month’s retreat on Hutchinson Island, Florida. Listening to the ocean waves and seeing the vast body of water that connects us all, we savor our current experience of our journey. Also, this retreat and return to the ocean is an ideal place to recall and express gratitude for the SAS Voyage and past travels—and anticipate future travels.

Connection is one of the first words that comes to mind in our reflections on the SAS Voyage and our absorption of that experience in the months since our return. Because of previous travel experiences, we anticipated that connections would be a key element of our experience. Yet, we could not have predicted the inexpressible impact of SAS connection.

We feel so much more connected! Connected to our shared planet; the vibrant world; the other travelers we came to love in the Ship community; the people we may have only met once, but who impacted our daily travel experiences, such as our guides or even—and perhaps especially—the stranger who smiled or stopped to help. Because of all we learned about the climate crisis, especially the impact on our Mother Ocean, we feel more connected to our planet—and more responsible for joining with others to affect change. Because of our increased awareness of human rights violations (and progress), we understand more deeply our shared humanity and the need for personal, political and social action, at home and abroad. These connections reinforce our personal and professional values of common good, social justice, and peace.

We understand, at a new level, the interconnected web of humanity. For instance, when we hear on the news about the ongoing situation in Myanmar, we think of the “beauty and brutality” of that country. When we hear about the political unrest in India, we think about our “Chalo, Chalo” connection. We feel connected to places we’ve never been, because we met people on the ship who were from those places. When we hear about the ravages of civil war in Sudan or the unrest and protests in Chile, we think about the brilliant students, Rayan and Felipe, from these countries who were leaders in the shipboard community. Closer to home, when we hear about events in Alabama, California, Oklahoma, Vermont…, we think about SASers who hail from there.

Happily, these connections continue with SASers! We are grateful for social media to continue our connections. Schuyler, one of Larry’s delightful students who lives locally, has had dinner with us a couple times. In the fall, a SAS life-long learner, Suzanne stopped by for lunch on her trek across country. November, 2019, we presented at a professional conference in Denver, CO. So, of course, we took a few extra days to re-connect with SASers in the area, including Laura T. and Susan S. in Denver. Karen and Mike hosted us for a couple nights in Ft. Collins, amidst a beautiful (but treacherous) winter snowstorm. Other SASers braved the elements for a dinner at their house: Oscar, Bernadette, Mia, Kelly, and Greg. And, brunch in Boulder with our “ship-daughter,” Megan H., was a special treat.

 The Inward and Onward Journey

“We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.” (Anonymous)

Certainly, through this shared experience, we feel more connected to each other—closer as a couple. One of the joys of traveling with a companion is the anticipation, savoring, expressing, and recalling are doubled in the process. As we said in an earlier post, part of our wedding vows (36 years ago) was to travel the world together. Through sickness and health, throughout life’s journey, we keep our vows.

Also, though it’s perhaps the most difficult aspect to articulate, we feel more connected to ourselves—an individual, inward spiritual connection. Much of the deepening meaning of travel (as in life) is the reflection on experiences. John Dewey said, “We do not learn through experience, we learn through reflection on that experience.” This reflection involves recalling the experience, expressing (albeit perhaps internally) the impact of that experience, savoring the meaning and memory, and, then anticipating how to use that experience going forward.

So, happily, we are fortunate to be able to travel the world. Also, happily, we are able to travel, without leaving our home (Casa de Paz). The journey is both inward and onward.

No matter where the journey leads, we plan to live “happily ever after”—as we anticipate, savor, express, and recall. We will continue to post—as we document and reflect on our travel experiences—both inward and outward. We hope to see some of you in 2020, either somewhere in our travels or when you visit us at Casa de Paz. And, even if we don’t know you (yet-😊), if you are reading this blog, you’re a traveler, too. We are happy to be connected.

A Global Perspective on Our Recent Travels in the U.S. South

“Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere.” Martin Luther King, Jr.

We began 2019 with our Semester at Sea experience of sailing the ocean to visit 10 countries in four months. The GOGlobalSW blog shared this amazing experience and how we solidified our commitment to global citizenship. The GOGlobalSW blog will continue to be a space for sharing our journey.

Traveling at “Home”

We have a travel goal to visit all 50 states. Recently, we had an opportunity to travel in the U.S. South. We’ve lived in Kentucky for over 30 years and lived in Georgia for a few years in the 1990s. We’ve traveled extensively in the southern states, except for Arkansas.

We were curious about how our recent travels to other parts of the world would affect our experience of travel in our home country. Also, we were feeling conflicted, because all our destinations had recently passed legislation that restricted women’s rights to reproductive health. To offset our travels there, we committed to increase our donations to the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU) and Planned Parenthood; continue political advocacy; and support candidates who represent our values.

Road Trip: Memphis, TN; Jackson, MS; New Orleans, LA; & Birmingham, AL

The impetus for this trip was a professional conference in New Orleans, LA. We’d be presenting on a book we co-authored with Jay Miller. We decided to take a Road Trip, rather than fly. Although we have visited Tennessee many times, we’d never made it to Memphis. And, we wanted to visit friends, along the way.

We left late morning on June 3rd and arrived in Memphis that evening. In addition to a fun dinner with a former student and wonderful social worker, here are highlights. In our three day-stay, we ate at 4 different BBQ/Ribs places. The One and Only BBQ is our fave: unique and robust flavors! We walked along the famous Beale Street and made the requisite pilgrimage to Graceland to say “Thank you very much” to Elvis.

The Civil Rights Museum was the most impactful part of our visit to Memphis and we highly recommend it. The museum is housed in the Lorraine Motel, where Martin Luther King, Jr., was assassinated. The impressive and informative displays provide powerful documentation of the scourge of slavery, and the courage of the Abolitionist Movement and Civil Rights Movement. The museum is not merely a static record of history, though, it is an organic testament to the need for continued activism.

Then, June 5th, we left for Jackson, MS for an overnight stay. We’d visited Mississippi on other travels. So, our main purpose in Jackson was to have dinner with an old friend, Sheree, whom we had not seen in a couple of decades. Our gracious server, Coretta, said to us, “I’m so glad ya’ll got to talk. You’d really missed each other.”

The next morning, we drove to New Orleans for The Teaching Professor conference, a nerd-fest with other educators. We’ve been to New Orleans several times—the music, food, and distinct culture of the city is worth the trip. This visit, the Gay Pride parade went right by our hotel and was a celebratory reminder of progress made—even in the South.

After the 3-day conference, we drove up through Alabama, stopping overnight in Birmingham to have dinner with another old friend, Angela. The following day we headed home to Casa de Paz. Seeing our friends along the way and experiencing the “Sweet Tea” friendliness of the South made the trip especially enjoyable. And, it was a reminder that good people reside all around the world.

Observations through a Global Lens

On this road trip, we reflected on how the rest of the world might see this area of the world. In her book, Americanah, Chimamanda Adichie ruminates on whether the changes she sees when returning to her birthplace of Nigeria are changes in the locale or in herself. Travel changes us—and, thus, the places to which we return.

Particularly in Birmingham, we were reminded of our Southern Baptist roots, as the denomination’s annual conference was being held there. The convention was confronted by brave members (and former) about the insidious sexual abuse and harassment in the denomination. This outcry was juxtaposed with the denominational leadership continuing to dither about whether women should be “allowed” to preach. The Southern Baptist religion has an indelible imprint and impact on the South. The incredible sexism (and racism and homophobia) that this religion fosters—and festers—is married (incestuously!) to the politics of the South.

On this road trip, we saw many beautiful green spaces. We enjoyed the conveniences of our travel: stopping for Starbucks, staying in air-conditioned hotels with amenities. We noticed many consumeristic things, different from most of our travels around the globe: Ubiquity of televisions (Ugh! noise!); valuing of quick and big over quality—big highways, big billboards, big servings, quick service, lotsa crappy stuff; and PLASTIC!

Perhaps because of being newly sensitized by the Civil Rights Museum and deeply affected by our travels in Africa, especially the slave market in Ghana, one observation was stark: The people in service roles (food, hospitality, housekeeping, etc.) were almost exclusively black and the people being served were predominantly white. People in the service sector are usually not paid a living wage nor provided adequate benefits, such as health care and vacation.

The definition of a structural ism is that a system is operating in such as manner that a particular group of people are harmed, disenfranchised, lessened—systematically. The observation above documents that structural racism keeps many people of color in servitude. This indicator is one of myriad ways that structural racism permeates our country—and in particular ways in the South.

Today, we reflect on the meaning of Juneteenth—the U.S. celebration of black independence from slavery. We are discouraged and, yet, determined. Led by Rep. Sheila Jackson Lee, Juneteenth, 2019, the U.S. government is being specifically called upon to proactively provide reparations for slavery. These reparations are necessary for the soul of the U.S. and for moving forward constructively and justly.

Actually, these reparations need to extend to the African countries from whom humans were enslaved and resources extracted. As we saw in our travels, the tentacles of this history have enduring negative consequences for these countries. How do we, the global community, pursue reparation? We don’t have all the answers; but, asking these critical questions is necessary and right.

As we mentioned in a previous blog, the U.S. has more true diversity than perhaps any other country in the world. We hope and commit to continue to work toward the real possibility of that diversity being accessed, fostered, and celebrated in ways that are just and exponentially positive for the world.

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Journey: The Joy of Home…and Continued Travels!

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“Travel teaches us about home, while teaching us about the world.” Thomas Swick

Throughout our Semester at Sea (SAS) voyage, we used Thomas Swick’s The Joys of Travel as a reflection tool. We wrote about the first joy, Anticipation, in one of our first posts. Our Keeping it Real post emphasized that, while routine is real, so is another joy of travel, i.e., break from routine. We hope sharing our varied modes of transport conveyed (Wink!) the joy of movement: Ship, boat, plane, train, bus, car, jeep, truck, rickshaw, taxi, tuk-tuk, and tootsies, oh my! And, we hope all our posts communicated the joys of novelty, discovery, and emotional connection.

Appreciating Home

“The sweetness of return is felt even by the traveler who is reluctant to leave” (Swick, p. 99)

Our SAS journey would not be complete, without reflecting on Swick’s final joy of travel: Heightened appreciation of home. When preparing for re-entry, SAS members were encouraged to consider the question: What do you most look forward to about returning home? What do you not look forward to? Honestly, we could identify so many things we looked forward to about returning home. And, the only thing we did not look forward to was the Spring yardwork that awaited. 😊

We relish and savor all the joys of travel! An (usually) unspoken assumption when one loves to travel is that we do not love home. And, indeed, that assumption is sometimes accurate; we meet people on our trips who travel to “escape” home. We don’t travel to escape—but to expand. We love our global village AND our Casa de Paz home!

We found our temporary ship-home’s comparatively tight space of our living quarters, with limited accoutrements, to be adequate. And, most of the time, we appreciated the experience of “enough”—except for that bed! And, we felt beyond fortunate to have the opportunities to explore and experience the vast world! Likewise, most of the time, we appreciated the opportunities for built-in community. Want to join someone for a meal: Literally hundreds of us shared the dining commons. Want something to do, see, experience: We had an ocean (wink!) of programming, people, possibilities!

At the same time, we missed our “tried and true blue” loved ones back home! We missed our familiar routine and surroundings. When we are home, we are so grateful for our “village.” And, we deeply appreciate the cozy, serene and—we hope—inviting ambience of our home. And, indeed, absence makes the heart grow fonder. We confess, we dreamt of our Casa de Paz home.

Yes! Returning home to dreams come true: Savoring freshly brewed morning coffee, in a favorite hefty mug, in utter silence; cooking meals and dining on our deck; having dear ones stay in our (quiet) guest quarters; working in a spacious home-office, with reliable internet (Woo! Hoo!).

This statement encapsulates it: “You arrive…and find [home] more beautiful than…the dream you had of it…Here are your pictures, your books, [your familiar life]…You reunite with the shower. Finally, you climb into bed—your bed—and the feeling of security is saturated with thankfulness.” (Swick, p. 99)

Being Part of the Global Village

“The farther you get from home—not just geographically, but emotionally—the clearer you see it.” (Swick, p. 89)

When we travel, we see more clearly the negatives about our home culture (U.S.). Swick mentions some of these: Inadequate public transport, fast food, rampant consumerism, noisy and loud atmospheres. We realize that, compared to many countries, the U.S. is going backwards in many social indicators, e.g., environmental protections, health care, women’s rights. And, we recommit ourselves to curtailing those negatives when we return home.

At the same time, we acknowledge the advantages our (privileged) U.S. home brings us—in terms of freedoms, choices, resources, and opportunities. Notably, Swick points out that many of us travel to experience the “foreign”—and realize that, actually, the U.S. culture (especially urban settings) is more diverse than most of the world. And, we recommit ourselves to protecting and celebrating those positives, as we return home.

These realizations about travel and home remind us that we are one global village. We recommit to a lifestyle that honors that interconnectedness.

Traveling, as a Lifestyle

“Travel, ideally, is both learning and teaching,” (Swick, p. 90)

Returning home, we reflect on how much we are influenced by our experiences and surroundings. We are challenged and changed by travel. We are comforted and rejuvenated by home. After our SAS journey, we are even more committed to making these two aspects complementary. Really, we want to make travel a lifestyle.

As we mentioned in our Keeping it Real blog, we incorporate elements of travel into our home through the artwork we find on our travels. We incorporate travel into our daily routines through the wine we drink and foods we prepare. Whenever we place the tablecloth we purchased in Fez, Morocco, we’ll feel more Fez-tive! (See what we did there!) The tablecloth complements the Peruvian dishes we got many years ago in Urumbamba, Peru for Larry’s birthday Plato Fiesta (Dish Party)!

Through media (social, news, movies and television, etc.), we travel through our interconnected world. And, of course! “…Books let you travel without moving your feet.” (Jhumpa Lahiri)

Finally and first, we want to have a travel-lifestyle through sharing our home with other travelers. So, know that at Casa de Paz, mi casa es su casa! Come visit! We will travel together through our shared stories, travel dreams, and interconnected journey.

Another Country: The Ship Community

“How far we travel in life matters less than those we meet along the way.” (Anonymous)

Our account of our Semester at Sea (SAS) Voyage would not be complete without writing about the shipboard experience. Several people on the Voyage—especially those who had made previous SAS voyages—commented that the ship community was their favorite country. We get it, now.

A World of Ship-Friends

This entry is one of the hardest to write. How to describe the ordinary days of an extraordinary experience? How to convey the connections of a lifetime, sometimes made in a moment? How to portray the exceptional encounters of the everyday?

The ship became our “home away from home.” We had 58 days at sea. And, we stayed on the ship during most of our travels in-country. We stayed in hotels 5 days in Japan and 3 days in Ghana. We had 3 overnights in India. Otherwise, we returned to the ship after day excursions.

A hotel commercial tag line: “We’ll leave the light on for you” evokes the feelings we had when returning to our ship-home. After sensory-filled adventures with exotic foods, unknown paths, and strange faces, the ship was a place of “home” comforts—familiar food, folks, and routines. And, we had an immediate space to share travel stories, celebrate shared experiences, and (re)connect ourselves.

Milestones, Connections, and Celebrations

Commemorating significant experiences builds community; in travel, we all have bucket list items; and, in life, it’s important to celebrate milestones. On the ship, those three aspects converged frequently.

Two days after India, on March 7, the ship crossed the Equator. SAS has a long-standing tradition of marking this milestone bucket list item by designating Neptune Day. Neptune Day is celebrated with silly ceremonial rites, including kissing a fish, diving in the pool, and shaving one’s head. We have kissed the Blarney stone in Ireland and done other such rituals in our travels. So, we did not feel compelled to do any of the above Neptune Day rites of passage. However, it was fun to feel the energy of those who did participate (and then take an afternoon nap).

In the aftermath, it was quite cool to see several women who shaved their heads. It felt very Wakanda-ish to see them throughout the ship. We know many of these women and they are awesome; they represent the Wakanda Women well.

Another milestone was sailing by the prime meridian and Null Island, the location of 0° longitude, 0° latitude. Surprisingly, a buoy in the middle of the ocean marks the spot. And, we had a bit of Love Boat romance! Doris, the Fritz bartender, and Siegi, the Hotel Director, got engaged as we sailed past 0°0°. Doris and Siegi made our lives so much more hospitable by their warmth and care. Later, we had a surprise celebration for them.

As we mentioned in a previous post (Life on the Love Boat), while on the ship, students (and faculty) had classes every day. However, evenings were fully programmed, with constant activities and opportunities. Frequently, we had entertainment—including talent shows that were wonderful! Most evenings, we had a lecture in the main auditorium. Interport lecturers, who sailed with us for brief stints, provided excellent information and inspiration about their home countries and other topics. Many of the faculty provided evening lectures. For example, Larry did a talk on the history of social work and an overview of social work practice in the United States. Several students talked with us about Social Work as a professional path.

Early in the voyage, students proposed and selected an array of “Clubs”—from Photography to “Jews on a Cruise.” These clubs had regular meetings and some of them hosted special events for the entire ship community. For example, a “Women’s Group” hosted an International Women’s Day event, with an open mic event that showcased incredible talent and advocacy.

One of the most active clubs was “Humanizing Headlines.” This group, comprised of mostly members from countries other than the U.S., provided important activism-focused content and actions. Of course, as social workers, we were cheering them on! And, they asked Erlene to do an evening presentation on the “EASY activism” framework she developed.

Occasionally, the calendar allowed for a “Study Day”—with no classes. On those days, the ship community participated in special programming. For instance, one day was the tradition of “Sea Olympics.” On SAS voyages, the students are divided into “Sea” groups; each group is assigned a Resident Assistant. The Sea Olympics was a day-long event in which the Seas (e.g., Red Sea; Baltic Sea, etc.) competed against each other. Notably, the Staculty, companions, life-long learners, and Ship-kids had a Sea, which was dubbed “Luna Sea.” (ha!) This fun day included a range of events, from volleyball, tug-a-war, and ping-pong to Rubik’s Cube spin-off to “Cheeto Beard” Contest.

It’s the Village, People!

Life on the ship was like a college campus or small village. We had 580 students from 219 universities representing 39 countries. In addition, there were 57 faculty/staff, 74 companions and life-long learners, and 176 crew members.

The heart of our community was the ship’s crew. We have never encountered a more diligent and delightful group of people. These folks kept the vessel and all its operations, shall we say, in ship-shape. And, one evening they put on a talent show that was incredible; such talent!

The faculty and staff (staculty) were, overwhelmingly, gifted, generous, dedicated folks. As well, the life-long learners and companions (those, like Erlene, traveling with staculty) were an essential part of our experience. Most of us congregated frequently in “The Fritz,” which was a “No Students or Children” zone. During the day, this space was an office/work/social area for faculty, staff, life-long-learners, and adult companions. In the evenings, it was a bar. One unanticipated part of this trip: The amount of time we spent in a bar! Doris’s margaritas may be the thing we miss most. 😊

Erlene especially enjoyed her walking “track” on Deck 9, which had glorious views of the ocean. Talk about a great “beach walk.” Practically every day, when at sea, she walked and was frequently accompanied by other walkers. And, of course, these walks involved Talks: Fun and meaningful connections.

The “Ship Kids”—minors who accompanied staculty—were a fabulous part of the Ship community. As a group, they were involved in so much of ship-life. It was fun to see their interactions amongst themselves and their genuine contributions to the Village. The intergenerational aspect of this experience was lovely!

And, finally, of course: The students. OMG! What amazing people! Sure, some obnoxious, irritating, and even worrisome situations arose. It’s a privilege to travel on SAS; and some folks’ privilege showed out in obnoxious ways. And, sometimes, we just wanted the constant, high-pitched chattering to stop. LOL. And, in case you didn’t know, binge-drinking is a problem for U.S. college students. (Duh?) Oh, and, don’t even get us started on SELFIES!

Yet, overwhelmingly, these students were interesting, engaged, smart, talented, and just plain fun! Overall, the students were invested, respectful, and took this unique experience seriously. The students were generally more knowledgeable and aware of international events and history than most! One of Larry’s classes had 9 countries represented, which made the learning processes particularly rich. We had countless incredible connections with students who enriched our understanding, entered our hearts, and just made the journey so much more enjoyable!

We have to say that the 10 Western Kentucky University (WKU) students, for whom we were ship uncle and aunt, were the BEST ship family ever. (In our totally unbiased opinion). We shared Valentine’s Day, celebrated birthdays, and other family times. We were so PROUD of how all the Hilltoppers represented themselves, WKU, and KY. They had different personalities and interests; so, they engaged in different ways. To a person, they were involved contributors to the ship community and superb world travelers! Gooooo, Tops!

And, we are forever connected with our ship-daughter, Megan H, with whom Erlene connected at the Waterfall tour in Hawaii. From that first meeting, we just knew we were family. Our connection was solidified constantly and sometimes eerily throughout the journey. We got to meet her Mom #1 in Amsterdam and felt like old friends. We know that our paths will continue to cross…and eagerly await her first visit to Louisville. Besides, our “ship kid” needs to meet our “airplane kid.” 😊

Travelers Make the Best Companions on Life’s Journey

We told people, before embarking on this journey, that this Voyage would be wonder-ful and that we would have a delight-ful time. We knew that would be true, because we are travelers. We know the joys we find in travel and the excitement and growth we’ve experienced in previous trips. And, we knew that anyone who would choose to be go on a 4-month voyage to see the world was likely a traveler, too.

A traveler is a particular kind of person. A true traveler is a global citizen who recognizes the interconnections of our planet and our shared humanity. A traveler never meets a stranger, because we know that strangers are just friends we have not met yet. And, to go on a journey with other travelers deepens, expands, and heightens the experience in exponential ways. We are fortunate to have traveled the world, while having a ship-home full of traveler-companions.

We hope our paths continue to cross and that many of our companions will find their way to our Louisville home. And, we know that our shared travels will keep us connected.

The Netherlands—Last Port on our Semester at Sea

“When people ask me why I still have hope and energy after all these years, I always say: Because I travel.” Gloria Steinem

After almost 4 months, our ship-home, MV World Odyssey’s, final port was Amsterdam, the Netherlands. In many ways, Amsterdam was the ideal site for ending our Voyage. Many of our companions on the Semester at Sea (SAS) Voyage embarked on more travel throughout Europe. For us, we were ready to get back to our Louisville, KY home, aka Casa de Paz.

Being in Amsterdam

And, yet, we were also happy to have a few days (April 21-26) to enjoy the Dutch ambience and reflect on our journey. Amsterdam was the starting point of our first international trip together, in 1990, during which we toted two trusty backpacks through five countries in three weeks. Indelibly, we remember taking the subway from the airport to arise into the streets of Amsterdam, and the exhilarating feeling of “We’re in Europe!” On that visit, we did a lot! We aahed on the canals and oohed at the windmills. We wandered about the streets, including the infamous Red-Light district. We visited nearby villages, major sites, as well as, art and history museums.

In an article, a resident described Amsterdam as “the most beautiful, tiny big city in the world, and…home.” In our travels, we’ve learned the difference in travel to see; travel to do; and travel to be. In this visit to Amsterdam, we decided to focus on being in Amsterdam. We wanted some slow time to let the intensity of our four-month kinetic adventure soak into our cells. We needed to absorb, reflect, rest. We are grateful to Amsterdam for providing us this space: Because we had been there before, and just because it’s Amsterdam, it was ideal for a lovely limbo. We weren’t “home,” and yet we felt a sense of “home” there.

We selected a hotel (XO Hotel) on the outskirts of Amsterdam, rather than the busy Center City. The hotel was in the Hoofddorppleinbuurt area! We have no idea how to pronounce that—but what fun to have been there. 😊The area was charming and comfortable: Canals, coffeeshops, and cafes! Green spaces, groceries, and good perches for people-watching and relaxing.

We spent our days there, walking in the parks, meandering the streets, and just being part of the neighborhood. We connected with SAS friends for dinner a couple of evenings. Larry ventured into the town Center for the “Heineken Experience” and to try his hand at the local casino. Erlene savored that day in the spacious hotel room—reading, writing, napping.

Orange, We Glad We Came

Our first order of business, though, after checking into the hotel, was to find a “real” cup of coffee. And, indeed, we did—at a nearby café/bar, served in an orange cup, no less! This local meeting place became “our place,” where we returned several times.

Happily, orange is the color of The Netherlands! We were there a few days prior to “King’s Day,” and so even more orange festooned the city! King’s Day, celebrated on April 27, used to be Queen’s Day. But, in 2013, Queen Beatrix, handed over the monarchy to her son, Willem-Alexander—after over 30 years. Never fear, though, Catharine Amalia, Princess of Orange (What a great title!) is first in line to reclaim the throne. Then, it shall revert to Queen’s Day. Or, perhaps, they will change it to Non-Binary Orange Day!

We were sorry to leave before the festivities of King’s Day! Apparently, it’s party-time—plus, there’s a huge flea market. (Hmmm, maybe that’s why Larry booked the return flight to avoid that day!) But, orange we glad to have been there! We came to a deep appreciation for the shades of Mother Ocean blue. But, we delighted in the bounteous orange and glorious green that greeted us in Amsterdam.

Tiptoe Through the Tulips with Us

And, then, we went to the Keukenhof Gardens in Lisse, with the largest bulb flower park in the world fpr the annual Tulip Festival. Talk about beautiful colors: 32 hectares, 800 varieties of tulips, 7 million bulbs. Over 500 growers cooperate to bring this beautiful garden to bloom. The 2019 theme was “Flower Power”—with “bright colors, hippies, peace, and music.” Groovy and Gorgeous!

Open for 8 weeks, this festival has over 1 million visitors. We highly recommend that you be one of those million. Meanwhile, we hope the photos below will brighten your world, as it does for us!

Yikes, the Bikes; Tall Tales; & Cheesy Life

“Look right, look left, look right again, step out…and get hit by a bike!”—These were the wise words given by the SAS student from The Netherlands, as he prepared us for visiting his beloved country. We will associate the Netherlands with orange coffee cups, splendid tulips, traditional windmills, and beautiful canals. (Oh, and the commonplace whiffs of the local “herb” that wafted our way!) But, really, bikes and more bikes will be our enduring image of Amsterdam!

And, this image is a quintessential metaphor of Amsterdam. A culture in which bicyclists have the right of way, then pedestrians, then motor vehicles says a lot about that culture. Cycling connotes a slower pace of life, an open-ness to the world, healthier lifestyles, and connection to the environment. As such, the Dutch culture has some of the best social and health indicators in the world. For instance, homelessness is miniscule; environmental protections are prioritized. The Netherlands is one of the most progressive countries in the world for LGBTQ rights and emphasizes gender equity.

And, here’s a tantalizing tall tale, no lie: The Dutch are the tallest people in the world! This growth index has been attributed to the Netherlands having the most plentiful and healthy food on the planet…and, some believe, it’s the CHEESE! Fortunately, the Dutch are the largest exporters of cheese in the world. So, we can continue to taste Amsterdam, even as we return from our tall travels.

Connecting the Dots: Colonialism, Consumerism, (Global) Citizenship

We would be remiss, if we did not comment in this post about one of the most poignant and important threads in our travels: The lasting legacy of imperialism. Dutch colonization and slave trade is historical fact, albeit downplayed. Undoubtedly, the Dutch wealth is embedded in historical subjugation. The effects of the extraction of resources and the fragmentation of the social fabric of countries in Africa are compelling and complicated. Seeing the negative, enduring effects in the countries we visited was sobering. Seeing the resilience of cultures, innovations borne from necessity, and tenacity of human spirits was inspiring.

Exacerbating the long-standing effects of colonialism are the growing problems fed by consumerism. As has been true throughout modern history, the tentacles of consumerism and capitalism affect every aspect of communal life. For instance, enslavement (in its varied forms) is excused by capitalistic “necessity.” Degradation of “other” members of the human family is too often part of the capitalistic equation of “success.” Likewise, degradation of Mother Earth and Mother Ocean—through pollution, plastic proliferation, and other means—is ignored. The interests of big business and mindless consumerism seem to trump all else. And, repeatedly, the Global North is the victor/oppressor, while the Global South pays the higher price.

However, this division of the “haves” and “have nots” is not sustainable. Through our travels and seeing the interconnections, we are utterly convinced of the necessity of Global Citizenship. As we leave the Netherlands, we are inspired by its commitment to the environment and other values. We hope this country will leverage its richness even more to make the world a better place—especially in partnerships with Global South countries, humane immigration policies, and attention to insidious racism.

In global citizenship, we are one orb—not just different countries, religions, and peoples. In global citizenship, we must learn how and act to save and sustain OUR home—the planet. And, we, each and all, have a role to play. Even as—and perhaps, especially as—we return home, we recommit to our global citizenship.

Morocco: We'll Always have Casablanca

“Nothing is ever the same as they said it was. It’s what I’ve never seen that I recognize.” Diane Arbus

Larry’s all-time favorite movie is “Casablanca,” which has the memorable line, “We’ll always have Paris!” Now, we will always have Casablanca and Paris. Previously, we visited France. And, we docked April 11th in Casablanca, for a 5 day visit in Morocco.

Morocco: Where the Sun Sets

Morocco means “land of the setting sun.” According to ancient legend, this land perched on the edge of Africa was where the world ended. So, it’s fitting that Morocco is the last port from which we return to our Semester at Sea (SAS) ship-home for exploring the world. Then, we sail for 6 days to disembark in Amsterdam.

Intriguing, ancient, modern, beautiful, oppressive, friendly: All these descriptors fit our Morocco experience. Here are highlights.

In Casablanca, the ship docked near a newly built train station. The station had a Starbucks and McDonald’s, alongside a local coffee shop and other local eateries. Upon arrival, we opted for the excellent local coffee. Then, we went to the Hassan II Mosque, the largest in Africa. The blend of Islamic architecture and Moroccan elements was stunning. The geometric designs are beautiful in their simplicity; the minaret is the tallest religious structure in the world.

Meandering the streets of Casablanca was enjoyable. Spicy aromas wafted from local eateries; ancient sites set alongside new buildings and lots of construction. The city had the feel of both being on the move and stuck in the past. The Medina, the central market area, was a maze of vendors with everything from tools to clothing to local leather goods. It was like a flea market on steroids.

Of course, we had to go for dinner at “Rick’s Café,” named after where most scenes in Casablanca took place. We had a fine traditional meal with a delicious Moroccan wine, which had Erlene’s name inscribed. (“Grise” is French in origin; France colonized Morocco.) Unfortunately, though a piano awaited, “Sam” was not there to play. Although over-rated, we are glad we went.

We stayed in Casablanca, taking advantage of the convenience of an enjoyable port and frugality of a pre-paid ship-home. We took two SAS day trips to Fez and Rabat. On both trips, we toured ancient Roman ruins along the way, saw beautiful countryside and seashores, visited local Medina/Market/Mazes. Enchanting!

We enjoyed local meals, especially the tajines. We’ve decided to try making some Moroccan dishes at home! Come join us!

Salaam! Where are the Women?

Throughout our time in Morocco, most of our interchanges were with men: from the security guards to the taxi drivers, shop-keepers, servers, guides, and just people on the street. We had one female tour guide (who called herself “Mama”) and a female server at Rick’s Cafe. In street scenes, we noticed cafes dominated by men. We saw lots of boys playing sports, and rarely girls.

Throughout this voyage, we have noted the impact of religion. A common factor evident in all the major religions is the subjugation of women. In Morocco, 99% of the population is Muslim. We definitely experienced the predominant feature of Islam as a peaceful religion. The beautiful calls to prayer punctuated the day. The greeting of Salaam and heart of peace permeated ordinary encounters.

At the same time, we kept bumping up against the dissonance between our pleasure in this entrancing culture and the oppression perpetuated by this religion. Like other countries we visited, homosexuality is illegal in Morocco! News sources and international gossip claim that the current king is gay.

Keltouma Guercha, our interport lecturer from Morocco, is an expert in women’s issues in Morocco. She shared how the country has made progress. In 2004, the king made radical changes to the Moroccan family law. However, these “radical” changes seem inadequate for women’s equality in a modern age! For instance, the law retracted the requirement for women to obey their husbands, made it more difficult for men to be polygamous, and raised the marriage age to 18. Radical—by what standard?

Namaste! Salaam! Shalom! Peace!

As we travel, we are reminded of the incredible freedoms and progress in human rights in our home country. However, we are increasingly troubled that our country is in danger of taking radical steps backwards. Women’s rights are being eroded. Progress in gay rights is being threatened. Racism is gaining new traction. Xenophobia is being legislated by our government. The divide between the “haves” and “have nots” is growing. And, religion is being used to promote these backward human rights.

Amidst a season of diverse religious holidays, may all religions come together for a better world, for ALL humanity and the planet. This, we pray.

Ghana: Food for Thought

“You may live in the world as it is, but you can work to create the world as it should be.” Michelle Obama, Becoming

We arrived in Takoradi, Ghana on March 30th for a three-day visit. Then, we sailed one day to arrive in Tema/Accra, Ghana where we stayed for two days. Both ports were very industrial; transport to and from the ship was cumbersome. High temperatures and humidity (with lack of air conditioning) sapped our energy quickly.

Our experience in Ghana was impactful in ways difficult to express. The Ghanaian culture includes love of music, humor, and proverbs. Perhaps some of their words can give food for thought…

Food!

“Nature gave us two cheeks instead of one to make it easier to eat hot food.” Ghanaian Proverb

Along with the gracious and friendly people we met, a favorite part of Ghana was the food! We had wonderful Ghanaian meals, fresh and tasty! We opted to stay at a hotel in Takoradi to access good Wi-Fi and AC—as did several folks from the ship. Our first meal was lunch at this hotel. 

Mavis approached our table to take our order—likely assuming we’d get the pizza or burgers typically ordered by other Semester at Sea (SAS) folks. When we ordered traditional Ghanaian dishes, she inquired, “Have you had this before?” “No,” we replied, “it’s our first Ghanaian meal.”  Somewhat grumpily, she said, “Are you sure? It’s spicy!” We joked, “Ah! You don’t think we can handle it?”

The meal was yummy. Larry, especially, ate his meal exuberantly, as he wiped his sweaty brow. (He gauges the quality of hot food by whether it makes him sweat.) Another server stopped by our table to check on us; her face showed her surprise at what we were eating. When we finished most of the (large) meal, Mavis declared, “You did well.”

In addition to delicious meals on our outings, we had several meals at the hotel. We ordered new Ghanaian dishes each time. By the end of our stay, Larry was a minor celebrity. Members of the staff stopped by our table to watch his obvious, sweaty enjoyment, and laugh with us. We’d won over Mavis, whose lovely smile and teasing conveyed connection through a shared pleasure of everyday life. 

Thoughts!

“We must go back and reclaim our past so we can move forward; so we understand why and how we came to be who we are today.” Ghanaian Proverb

Rebecca, the helpful local hospitality staff member who came aboard the ship during our stay, arranged a driver, Alaji. He took us on a day trip to the city of Cape Coast. There, we had an excellent tour of the Cape Coast “Castle,” which should more aptly be called a Slave Market.

The tour of this site was profound. It compares to when we went to the Dachau Concentration camp in Germany. That intense experience from many years ago has stayed with us. And, this experience will, as well. The cruelty and inhumanity that humans can impose on other humans is hard to fathom. But, we must see it.

The guide led us through the dungeons in which thousands of black human beings were held in horrible conditions awaiting their fate. These dungeons had one tiny window, no bathroom facilities, no humane provisions at all. People stacked together in conditions that no animal—much less another human—should be forced to endure for an hour, much less days upon days. Women were routinely raped by the white owner. Eventually, these prisoners were brought into an area where they were sold to the highest bidder. Many did not survive the Middle Passage (the journey across the Atlantic Ocean); some committed suicide; those who arrived at their destination entered a life of slavery.

After experiencing the depravity of this inhumane section, the guide led us to an open courtyard and pointed to an area immediately above the slave imprisonment area. He noted that this area was a church. The silence after that pronouncement spoke volumes. Then, he led us to the other side of the compound, which had huge windows facing the beautiful ocean, with a cooling, fresh breeze. This area, he explained, was the owner’s residence.   

From Ghana, over 12 million people were sold into slavery. The modern capitalistic economy was built on slavery. The historical impact and legacy of this slave trade on Ghana, other parts of Africa, and the African Diaspora is exponential. The present-day poverty of Ghana is indelibly linked with the past rape and pillage of the country’s resources and humanity through slave trade and other economic plundering. 

Our guide ended our tour with asking whether we believed slavery had ended. He reminded us of the ramifications from the past and the prevalence of present-day slavery, especially in the forms of human trafficking, sweat shops, and child labor. He ended by remarking that we must know these truths and “learn to love one another.”   

Still Thinking…!

“Truth is a cure.” Ghanaian Proverb

The drive to Cape Coast took us through many small villages and countryside. Throughout the day, we saw glimpses of unspoiled beaches. We had lunch at a local restaurant overlooking a beach, enjoying the ocean breeze, delicious meal, and good company.

On this Sunday drive, and throughout our visit, we noted the ubiquity of the Christian religion. Practically every surface, from billboards to shop signs to transportation had a religious message—from the “God Will Provide” Hair Salons to the scripture verse decals on taxis. Most billboards advertised a revival or charismatic religious speakers. The sound-track of the day included the taxi driver’s radio playing enjoyable Ghanaian music, along with frequent bursts of harmonious song from the churches we passed. In every village, people dressed in Sunday finery were going to and from church services.

These villages consisted of mainly mud and stick huts. We saw people exiting homes that looked like they’d literally crumble and wash away in a rainstorm. During our stay, in both cities, we saw people scrambling to work: the taxi drivers who lined up and aggressively pursued our business; the sellers on the streets and stalls who persistently sought our patronage. We saw young children begging. We saw infrastructure that, to put it mildly, was in disrepair. Roads were rutted, and many were simply dirt paths. Open drainage was common throughout both cities. Routinely, we heard about government and police corruption. And, everywhere we turned we saw the messages of “God Will Provide.” 

This dissonance of abject poverty and Christian piety was hard to stomach. In processing this dissonance with someone, he said, “The preachers and politicians get rich and the people stay poor.” In this post, we focus on the economic inequities perpetuated by the dominant religion. Unsurprisingly, and sadly, the status of women and LGBTQ are similarly oppressive—as perpetuated by religious traditions and social policies. Ghana was glowingly described in a guidebook as having minimal political strife, with protests being rare. We were left thinking that perhaps that’s not a good thing.  

Ms. Obama’s quote reminds us that we must understand the world as it is. The world includes stark poverty, insidious inequities, government corruption, religious perversion, and civic disengagement. We left Ghana with more questions than answers and are still thinking.    

We are even more convicted that all of us can do something to address these inequities and inhumane conditions. We can join with others doing the work. Through SAS field trips, we learned about two reputable organizations. Global Mamas (Google it! You can shop on-line) provides an avenue for local Ghanaian women to sell their crafts, thus, improving their economic status, and their family and village life. Larry took his class to a local university and to visit SOS Children’s Village. This large facility provides a range of human services, including a children’s home. Having a background in child welfare, Larry was impressed with the caliber of their services.

We, all, need to be more aware and active in our global citizenry. We all can learn more, do something, and be better.  We can think globally AND act locally. We, our histories and herstories, our planet, and our futures are interconnected: Truth!

South Africa—Part II: A Rainbow of Stories

“My humanity is bound up in yours, for we can only be human together.” Desmond Tutu

We arrived in Cape Town, South Africa on March 18th for a 6-day visit. Of the many places we’ve traveled, South Africa’s beauty and opportunities for varied experiences is unparalleled.

“Pretty Good for ‘A Sh*thole Country’”

Our ship’s dock provided a lovely view of the iconic Table Mountain. Along with the masses, we took the cable cars up to the top; a few of the Voyagers hiked up for sunrises and sunsets. The panoramic view from this craggy perch was a highlight. As our other South Africa blog, Part I shows, other highlights included a safari at Aquila Game Reserve, with a bus ride through wine country. Also, a day’s drive down the rocky coast to Cape of Good Hope to meet some awesomely awkward penguins and see Seal Island reminded us of the beautiful Northern California coastline.

Within short walking distance from the ship, the V&A Waterfront area had fun shops, entertaining street performers, and a fancy Ferris wheel. Various restaurants had delicious and reasonably priced food, and South African wines. Many meals were like U.S. dining. A mall area had familiar and unique shops. We were able to re-stock our snacks supply from the large grocery in the mall. And, happily, we had excellent coffee at the Now Now coffeeshop. “Now Now” is a reference to “African time,” which can be unpredictable by Western standards. (Larry still misses Starbucks almost as much as we miss our reliable internet connection!)

We went to GreenMarket Square and Old Biscuit Mill Market for “cultural exchanges” (aka shopping), and the best meal of the Voyage. We meandered through Bo-Kaap, the predominantly Muslim neighborhood, with colorful houses. And, we got our green nature fix in the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden.

Like many places in the world (including areas of the U.S.), Cape Town has high crime rates (it’s been called the “rape capital of the world”); unemployment is exceedingly high (especially for people of color); and they are facing a significant water shortage. During our visit, the city shut down parts of the grid for designated hours to save electrical power. These problems are inextricably linked with structural inequality and government corruption.

However, our engaging interport lecturer, Zubeida Jaffer, summarized it best. While acknowledging horrific history and continued challenges, she shared the nation’s many assets and successes. Throughout an evening lecture, she (with good humor) remarked that South Africa is doing “pretty good for a sh*thole country.” [Her use of this phrase references a ludicrously xenophobic comment made by the man currently occupying the U.S. presidency.]

Ms. Jaffer is a journalist, author, and activist; she was a political prisoner because of her role during the anti-apartheid movement. A significant measure of the health of a democracy is the freedom of the press. Ms. Jaffer noted that the World Press Freedom Index ranks the U.S. as #45 (irony!). South Africa is #28. As she said, indeed, “not bad for a sh*thole country.”

Stories and Re-Storying

Ms. Jaffer, and others like her, play a crucial role: Story-tellers who document our “reality” and world. As we travel, we realize at new levels the power of stories. Whose stories are told? Who stars in the stories? Whose stories remain invisible or are turned into caricatures. For example, on a grand scale, in our travels and in general, we see the dominance of His-story, i.e., Male stories. (Ms. Jaffer noted the sexism in the anti-apartheid movement, itself.)

Apartheid is a prominent story-line in South Africa. This nation’s attention to the horrors of this blatant racism is notable. The stories of apartheid are told by former political prisoners and guards on Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned. Mandela’s extraordinary life story of peaceful activist, political prisoner, to elected president is well-known. We also visited District Six Museum, which uses photos, images, written accounts, and guides who lived in District Six to tell the layered, lesser-known stories of ordinary people diminished by apartheid. Numerous black families were driven from their homes through legal (and immoral) actions of apartheid.

A SAS field trip included a visit to a township. There, we had a delicious South African meal prepared by Sheila in her home. We listened to a beautifully talented local band play traditional instruments and sing in gorgeous harmony. Frankly, it was discomfiting to be part of an obviously privileged, largely white busload of people walking through this impoverished, largely black community. Poverty should not be a tourist attraction. Yet, glimpsing this economic poverty juxtaposed with cultural richness shows both the insidious legacy of apartheid and the incredible resilience of these people.

Ubuntu: I Am Because You Are

An overarching reference point in our SAS Global Studies class is Chimamanda Adiche’s brilliant TED talk The Danger of a Single Story. Art displays at the fort and Castle of Good Hope and Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa invite viewers to critically consider whose stories are being told. For instance, does the artist portray the view of the conqueror, to the further diminishment of the conquered? Does the art present a white-washed view? Again, whose stories get told and by whom?

A casual interchange with a youngish, black male security guard on the Waterfront led to this local expert telling a story of apartheid, succinctly and insightfully. He explained how whites, a miniscule minority, were able to disenfranchise the vast majority, people of color: “They played the battle of the minds, first. They pitted us against each other, invented tribalism. They provided weapons to one group to fight the other, while they benefited.” When asked about the aftermath of apartheid, he said a major issue now is land reclamation. How does a country resolve a history of stolen lands? Finally, he emphasized the danger of a single story—“People of color and whites need to get to know each other as real people.”

We have long-admired Archbishop Desmond Tutu, who sailed previously with Semester at Sea! We are saddened to hear of his declining health. We were very moved in our visit to the Desmond & Leah Tutu Foundation’s exhibition, In His Words. This display of Desmond Tutu’s writings tells a story of redemption, after incredible atrocities; a story of pursuing peace as a way forward. A Nobel Peace Prize winner, Archbishop Tutu said, “there is no peace, [without] justice.”

Tutu was the architect of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission. This Commission served as a conduit for those affected by the horrors of apartheid to tell their stories and seek some closure. This process allowed those who had perpetrated the evils of apartheid to both be held accountable and be given grace when they acknowledged their role. (Notably, some, mostly upper-echelon apartheid leaders refused to participate and were sent to prison.)

One of the threads in our travels has been seeing the impact of religion—sadly, primarily as a tool of division and harm. In contrast, Archbishop Tutu used religion for healing and hope. He acknowledged the history of harm, stating, “When the missionaries came to Africa, they had the Bible and we had the land. They said ‘Let us pray.’ We closed our eyes. When we opened them, we had the Bible and they had the land.”

Yet, in his anti-apartheid work, Tutu used the Bible’s principles to pursue a return to justice. After the initial dismantling of apartheid, even amidst the remaining devastation, Tutu reclaimed the biblical metaphor of the rainbow. He proposed that South Africa be called the Rainbow Nation, a symbol of the hope that comes in the unity of diversity.

The murky streams of racism still affect every aspect of South Africa. And, as our travels newly reveal, myriad forms of bigotry flood our world with inequality and injustice. Certainly, our home country has its own legacy of apartheid (i.e., segregation)—and lacks South Africa’s explicit efforts toward restorative justice. Yet, the rainbow of stories that recognize injustice, pursue peace, and raise hope create an arc that bends toward Ubuntu.

South Africa, Part I: A Grand Adventure!

“We were made to enjoy music, to enjoy beautiful sunsets, to enjoy looking at the billows of the sea, and to be thrilled with a rose that is bedecked with dew. Human beings are actually created for the transcendent, for the sublime, for the beautiful, for the truthful, and all of us are given the task of trying to make this world a little more hospitable to these beautiful things.” (Archbishop Desmond Tutu)

One of the hard parts of this Voyage is missing people back home, especially our Grands, Zahir (5) & Noor (3). When we call, Z asks, “Are you in Africa yet? What animals have you seen?”

So, this pictorial post from our South African Safari and other beautiful things is for the Grands! May we, all, do our part in “trying to make this world a little more hospitable” for these beautiful things, and all the Grands who will inherit our Globe.

A Day in Mauritius: A Small Place with Big Lessons

“All travelers are optimistic…Travel itself is a sort of optimism in action.” (Paul Theroux, The Tao of Travel)

After sailing for 5 days, from India, we reached Port Louis, Mauritius on March 11th. We only had one day there. We’d love to have had a longer visit in this lovely country with hospitable people.

Dora, the Explorer and the DoDo

Where in the World is Mauritius? Maybe Dora would know; but we’d never heard of this small African nation! Our excellent interport lecturer, Dr. Vasser Kaupapaymuthoo, explained that Mauritius is an “ocean state.” He described this beautiful country as consisting of multiple islands and the surrounding ocean. He explained that the oceans are becoming an “imperialism battleground.” That is, large nations want to conquer the oceans. He said, “90% of world commerce goes through the oceans and if you control the oceans, you control commerce.”

In many ways, Mauritius seems to be a microcosm of the world’s history. We are learning in our Global Studies class about the historic legacy of imperialism and colonization, as primary influences in the globe. Generally, these phenomena leave a legacy of injustice and inequality. Dominant world powers invade nations to pillage local resources, marginalize indigenous peoples, and ravage the land—and, we are learning, ravaging the ocean too! (Of course, the dominant powers call this “discovery”, “settlement,” and even “development.”)

In Mauritius, the impact of imperialism is symbolized in the loss of the dodo bird. This cool-looking creature is the first known example of extinction caused by human behavior. The Dutch, who invaded this island, hunted this bird into extinction. The world is a sadder place, because the Dodo is gone! Boo! Imperialism!

Butt, Can the Sea Dragons Save the Planet?

The Dodo is gone, but can we learn our lessons, live in peace, and save the planet? We’re trying to do our part. Mauritius is facing significant environmental challenges. Semester at Sea (SAS) offered several field trips that featured environmental interventions. Larry was one of several trip liaisons for one experience. Approximately 80 of us traveled by bus to nearby Flec and Flac, where we participated in a beach clean-up, alongside a group, Global Shapers. This local organization is a network of young people “driving dialogue, action, and change related to environmental issues.”

We were divided into teams and assigned particular debris items to collect. By the (bad) luck of the draw (pun!), we were assigned to collect cigarette butts. Ugh! You wouldn’t believe how many butts we found on that beach! We dubbed our team, the Sea Dragons, with the motto of “No Butts left Behind.” In the context of such a huge issue, our contribution was relatively meager. But, hopefully, it sparked (Punny!) the motivation in participants to continue this kind of awareness and action. A darling pre-schooler from Norway insisted on joining our endeavor.

After the clean-up and a box lunch picnic, we had a couple of hours to enjoy the beautiful (and, now, a bit cleaner) beach. Then, we went to a nearby university where we viewed a film, Antiplastik, made by a local organization, Enn Locean Vivab. The film was similar to the powerful documentary, Blue, which we saw during the first phase of the voyage; but, with a focus on Mauritius’ environmental issues. We also had a delightful demonstration by the multi-talented film-maker of various musical instruments he fashions out of waste (such as PVC pipes, cardboard, plastic, etc.)

Mauritius: A Model

No, the Sea Dragons, alone, cannot save the planet and create peace—not even with the help of energetic Norwegian pre-schoolers. However, Mauritius is a model for how to try. With 1.2 million inhabitants, Mauritius has one of the highest population densities in the world. Various religious groups seem to be co-existing relatively peaceful. It’s multi-ethnic, multi-cultural, and multi-lingual—there is no “official language”; it’s truly Creole. As a “welfare state,” health care and education are free. And, we saw that they are proactively striving for environmental health.

March 12th marked the Mauritius Independence Day (50 years since gaining independence from Great Britain). The pride in their country, without toxic nationalistic fervor, seems apparent. The Global Shapers organization goes into schools to educate and engage children. In conversation with one of the leaders, she shared that she feels grateful to live where she does. She elaborated that she tells the students how fortunate they are to live in beautiful Mauritius and that they have the responsibility to protect and sustain that beauty.

Traveling the globe, we share that sentiment and echo that lesson. Experiences like Mauritius foster an optimism that SAS Sea Dragons, Norwegian pre-schoolers, Global Shapers, and all of us, together, can save the planet and live in peace. May we be more like the best of Mauritius.

India: Chalo! Chalo! (Let’s GO! Let’s GO!)

“Most travel, and certainly the rewarding kind, involves depending on the kindness of strangers, putting yourself into the hands of people you don’t know and trusting them with your life.” (Paul Theroux, The Tao of Travel)

We had an intense, interesting time in India, February 29-March 5. In our pre-port session (which is held to prepare us for our visit to each country), we learned that Semester at Sea (SAS) had considered diverting us from our visit to India. A day before our arrival, the long-standing tension between India and Pakistan had escalated. Military incidents had occurred along the India – Pakistan border. Based on an assessment from various sources, SAS decided to change the itinerary of only one field trip that had the northern-most stop. Otherwise, our visit to India proceeded as planned.

Namaste!

Via ship, plane, train, bus, jeep, taxi, tuk-tuk, rickshaw, and tootsies, we traveled from Cochi to Jaipur to Agra to Delhi. Along the way, we experienced the essence of namaste, kindness of strangers, and the importance of everyday work. Our first day in port, we explored lovely Cochi.

Then, beginning with a 3:30 (A.M.!) departure, we had 4 days and 3 nights on a “field program” with students and life-long learners. Larry and another faculty member were the trip liaisons for one group of 34, led by a wonderful tour guide, Govind. Our group traveled alongside another group of 34, with two additional liaisons and a guide. The tour company also had a coordinator, Sonya.

We put ourselves in the hands of strangers and trusted them with our itinerary, luggage, and lives! We were greeted again and again with namaste and treated with courtesy and kindness. Often in our travels, we are acutely attuned to the importance of every day work in affecting the travel experience. From the airline employee who takes a moment to ensure our (relative) comfort to the hotel restaurant staff who brings the elixir of espresso to our table, these mundane moments are often magnified in the intensity of travel.

In particular, our bus driver and his able assistant, who took us to most of the tour stops were crucial for both getting us to our destination and delivering us intact. From navigating the steep, rough paths up to forts and scenic outlooks to the chaotic, crowded streets of Delhi, we now believe our driver had magical powers! Growing up, Erlene and siblings rode the school bus an hour to get to and from their farm to school. She remembers having unflinching faith that Boyd, the bus driver, would forge flooded creeks or snowy side roads to deliver the kids safely. Our Indian bus driver was our “Boyd.”

Mottos and a Mighty Impressive Mausoleum

In our travels, we often designate a fun motto that distills the experience. For instance, our Montana Motto was “Where’s the elk?”—because we spent a lot of time trying to spot the elk that we’d been told were everywhere. Our Denmark motto was “Probably the Best,” which is their famous Carlsberg beer tagline and illustrates the Danish modesty.

Our India motto became “Chalo! Chalo!” We learned from our tour guide, Govind, that Chalo means “Let’s go!” Chalo was uttered LOTS, in corralling the group of nearly 70 individuals. (We really want Chalo t-shirts!) Most of the group members were right on time, flexible, and good travel companions. But, a few of them reminded us of why we don’t typically travel in groups. LOL. We gave small gifts to the tour staff, including a cat statue to Sonya, as a symbol of the (new to her) apropos expression of “herding cats.”

In Jaipur, Govind’s hometown, we had some delicious meals, with fun local entertainment; saw historic sites; got a good tour of this beautiful “Pink City”—so named because of the adobe-painted buildings; and stopped at the requisite street market. The Amber Fort was a favorite stop; accessible only by jeep, its blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture, was uniquely beautiful.

Jaipur is home to dozens of colleges. Govind stated that, with a ready pool of college students as employees, a significant percentage of call centers are located there. Who knew that this journey would help us feel more connected to even those irritating callers—maybe they are from the beautiful Jaipur.

From Jaipur, our trusty bus driver took us the 5.5 hours to Agra, for a much-anticipated highlight of our entire SAS journey: The Taj Mahal! Sometimes such renowned places don’t live up to the hype. But, the Taj Mahal really did. Truly Awesome. It helped that our guide gave us good information and we had learned in our Global Studies course about the background of this amazing mausoleum! “The Taj” and its grandeur will definitely be a lasting memory of India. In juxtaposition, the character hewn in our rickshaw driver’s face represent the range of images from India. (See photos.)

Cows, Castes, and Karma

Another memorable image of India is the ubiquitous presence of cows! We knew cows were esteemed by the Hindu religion, India’s dominant religion. But, we weren’t prepared for cows and monkeys everywhere! One of the many monkeys in the train station swooped down and grabbed a bag of chips from a student’s hands!

Our guide was quite versed in Hinduism. Govind talked about major gods and goddesses, core tenets, and cultural expressions. For instance, he explained that the caste system, while changing with the younger generation and more urbanization—is still in effect in many ways. He explained intricacies of Karma. We felt a new appreciation for many aspects of Hinduism—and, as with all religions—a dissonance with how the religion is often expressed.

Divisions, Development, and Dreams

A sub-text (and in many ways primary text!) of this journey is the impact of religion. Unfortunately, the negative effects of Hinduism are evident in many ways, especially as it’s interwoven into the political/cultural fabric. The long-standing tensions between India and Pakistan are certainly complex; but, at core, they are embedded in religious differences. Pakistan is predominantly Muslim and India predominantly Hindu. Religious intolerance is a political tool that is too easily used to stoke divisions.

Another prevalent division is the troubling status of women. In an emblematic example, typically, males and females go through separate lines at the airport. This division is purportedly to “protect” women’s modesty, etc. However, in effect, it perpetuates the problem of women being expected to be “modest”—and all the baggage that accompanies that expectation. A documentary, “India’s Daughter,” about the young Indian woman who was raped “because she chose to go to a movie alone after dark” distills many of the issues.

From Agra, we took a train to Delhi. The arrival into crowded Delhi—with clamoring beggars, teeming traffic, and unclean streets—was the image of India we had from movies. Our tour guide took us into various parts of Delhi, including a rickshaw ride in a crowded market and to various religious sites. By bus, we also saw upscale, clean, green areas of Delhi. This city seems to be a quintessential example of the unjust conditions of economic disparity. This division is perpetuated by a religious-political system that has an embedded caste system of rich and poor, deserving and undeserving.

From Delhi, we flew back to Cochi, the capital of the state of Kerala, which is the size of Kentucky. (India has 29 states and 7 union territories). Prior to our arrival in India, three SAS students from India provided a brilliant lecture about their homeland, emphasizing that there are “many Indias.” We’re glad we got to experience the distinct areas of Jaipur, Agra, Delhi, and Cochi.

A SAS faculty member, Troy Burnett, gave a lecture about Kerala, as a model of development—both in India and worldwide. He delineated myriad social indicators of how Kerala has developed over the past 100 years. For instance, the state has exceedingly low rates of poverty, exemplary women’s empowerment indicators (e.g., family planning), high levels of religious diversity, strong labor unions, and active civic engagement. This development was evident. For example, returning from Delhi back to Cochi, we noted the lack of people who appeared homeless and the comparatively clean streets.

Through travel, we are reminded that the unjust divisions, such as those in India, are present throughout the world, albeit in varying forms. (The U.S. has glaring issues!) Also, through travel, we learn of models for developing a better, more just path forward. In many ways, this Voyage fuels our dream of a world of peace and justice.

This Voyage is making the world feel smaller—with the sense of connection amongst us—for better and worse. At the same time, the world is seeming even more vast, as we identify places yet to visit. Realistically, we may not return to India. But, if we do get another opportunity, we’ll respond, “Chalo! Chalo!” And, we hope you’ll to do the same!

Burma: A Journey with Beauty, Buddhism, & Brutality

“Maps are useful…, but you have to travel and explore to understand [the real] landscape.”

(Sayadaw U Jotika, Snow in the Summer)

We arrived in Yangon, Myanmar (Burma) on February 19 and stayed five days. Some voyagers chose to travel to other areas of the country. We stayed in Yangon. Transportation was particularly challenging in this port. The ship docked in a remote, industrial area; the shuttle bus to the city took 1.5-2 hours, one way, on a rutted, dusty roadway. The city is undergoing a big road-building project, financed by Japan.

We took Semester at Sea (SAS) field trips, including a city orientation tour, visits to monasteries, pagodas, and markets. On the city tour, we visited the renowned, impressive, golden Shwedagon Pagoda. On a long day trip, we visited Bago. One day, we had an unplanned “field trip” to learn about the country’s health care system, one of Larry’s areas of interest! As is bound to happen with this many people traveling intensely, a student got sick and was admitted to a local hospital, where she received excellent care. Another faculty member stayed with her overnight. Then, we volunteered to go help her at discharge and accompany her back to the ship.

Our last day, we went into the city to seek out art galleries and have lunch at the popular Rangoon Tea House. We happened upon a cooperative of local artisans and bought a few items. We were particularly conscientious in this port to support independent businesses.

Beauty: In the Eye of the Beholder

A student said her initial impression was that Burma was dirty and poor. She elaborated that she felt badly about that impression, after she met so many wonderful people and saw more of the country’s natural beauty. We commented that both are true. Burma has a particular beauty! AND, it has high levels of poverty, and the roads and streets were dirty. Burma has the widest income gap between the rich and poor in the world.

By now, we’re convinced that plastic is a curse of the planet. And, nowhere was that more evident than in Burma. The rural roads were lined with primitive, temporary shacks that house road workers and their families, with accompanying trash (mostly plastic). City streets had similar debris. And, the plastic chairs! Ugh!

However, traveling the roads into the city, we observed the beauty of rural countryside, especially in such an “undeveloped” country. One of the students remarked that Burma was her favorite country so far, because it is “raw” in its development process. The farm fields, unique trees, river life, livestock, and birds provided a tapestry that made those long rides meditative, albeit bumpy!

In travel, the people we encounter leave the most lasting impressions. The long ride and other encounters made us admire such hard-working people. The labor of construction, farming, and fishing were especially evident, as much of that labor would be mechanized in other countries. However, as we learned from our Bago tour guide, “Joe,” this human labor is cheaper than machines. The workers are paid the equivalent of $1.50 a day.

Joe included our SAS group in a beautiful spiral of kindness. He gave us a sheet of paper with a Burmese phrase. Then, we were assigned to find this food item in the Bago open market and we were given enough Kyat (Burmese money) to do so. He explained that the exercise was to encourage us to interact and learn that the Burmese are helpful and kind. Indeed, that was our experience. (Otherwise, we’d never have found our assigned eggplant!) Then, on the road trip back to the ship, Joe invited us to share the bounty from the market with some of the laborers on the roadside. Joe explained that he started this project when he saw some of these workers begging for water.

As an expression of appreciation to Joe for sharing this experience, we spontaneously decided to give him a SAS tote bag (which Larry donated) and collected fun snacks for him to give his young daughter. (He is a big fan of SAS.) We gave this token to him, with the wish that his kindness karma would return to him and that his daughter would grow up in a world of peace.

Buddhism: The Good, the Bad…

Joe’s Buddhist faith shone through in his actions and much of his presentation to us related to Buddhism. We’ve traveled a lot. And, we’ve never experienced a more overtly religious region (with the possible exception of the U.S. rural South). Buddhism permeated. Pagodas are everywhere. Our field trips featured Buddhist monasteries. Notably, in numerous ways, we learned that sexism thrives in Buddhism in Myanmar. For example, a guide told a story of how a woman “tempted” the Buddha, and, thus, women are constrained from participating in certain aspects of Buddhism. (Sound familiar?)

Joe, and all our tour guides, referenced Buddhism, frequently. The public markets had numerous Buddhist-related items. The tour busses had Buddhist-related decals and symbols prominently displayed.

In heavy traffic, one of our taxi drivers continued chanting his prayers, along with a recording, and doing his prayer beads. Periodically, he clasped his hands and bowed his head. Obviously, he was up-to-date with his religious rituals and was prepared to meet his Maker; we just didn’t necessarily wish to accompany him on that part of the journey! We were relieved to arrive at our (thankfully, not final!) destination.

Monasteries are everywhere! There are over 500,000 full-time monks in Myanmar. Every young male is expected to spend some time as a monk and can decide whether to stay or leave. The monasteries are a central part of the community culture. We witnessed the daily ritual of the monks going out into the community to collect food. Giving them food is seen as a way to invite good karma. The monasteries serve as either teaching or meditation sites. Larry’s class visited a meditation monastery and Erlene participated in a learning exchange with a monastery that teaches English and other languages. Other field trips included visits to monasteries and one nunnery. Nunneries seem to be quite secondary to monasteries. (Again, sound familiar?)

Brutality…and the Ugly

As some of you may know, Myanmar is experiencing a religious-political crisis—which is primarily occurring in the west, and we traveled in the south. We, and many of the SAS Voyagers, did not know the extent of the horror. A wonderful student club, “Humanizing Headlines,” showed a compelling documentary, Myanmar’s Killing Fields. We highly recommend this documentary done by Dateline in spring, 2018. Be warned: It’s graphic. It documents the Myanmar military government, with radical Buddhists, committing “crimes against humanity, ethnic cleansing, and genocide” in displacing, raping, and murdering Rohingya Muslims.

We, and many on the SAS Voyagers, were conflicted about going to this country and how to respond. For instance, some companies are choosing to divest. Although companies like KFC remain, we learned that Starbucks ditched their plans to locate there, due to the escalating crisis. If Starbucks (which is everywhere!) won’t go there, should we?

The Journey Continues

Our one word for 2019 is “Journey.” At a street bookstore in Yangon, we picked up A Map of the Journey by Sayadaw U Jotika, a well-known Burmese monk. He writes, “So we are all related, connected. We cannot harm anybody without harming ourselves or harming somebody else. Not harming is very important” (p.16).

We left Burma conflicted about how to respond to the situation there, personally, ethically, and politically. What prevents harm? Should we have gone? Should companies divest or invest? What is the role of the global community? And, countless other questions. We did decide to thank Starbucks for this stance and donate to Human Rights Watch.

We also left Burma, having explored the landscape, knowing it is more than just a dot on a map. We beheld the beauty of the faces of everyday people and kindness of hearts. We saw the stark poverty. We felt the dangerous effects of fundamentalist religion being mixed with governmental powers. We understand the complexities a bit more—and how those complexities are not limited to Burma. Our questions continue, as does the connection that travel underscores.

Vietnam: Six Days of Connection

“In travel, simply looking around is an education” (Thomas Swick, The Joys of Travel)

We arrived in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) or Saigon on February 8th, for the end of Lunar New Year’s Tet (Celebration). We stayed six days in HCMC, with a day trip on the Mekong Delta. The Lonely Planet guidebook described HCMC as “There’s nowhere else like it.” We agree! The guidebook further described the Vietnamese as “industrious, proud, stubborn, and yet mischievous, quick to laugh, and fond of a joke” (p. 286). Agreed!

Humor, Happy Rooms, & Hammocks

On our first full day, we did a Semester at Sea (SAS) City Tour Field Program. We toured the Reunification Palace; visited a temple shrine; walked through the boulevard decorated for the new year; stopped into a huge market; soaked in the panoramic view and air conditioning from the tallest building in the city; ate a tasty pho lunch; enjoyed a rickshaw “race”; and got a good initial sense of the city. Our tour guide had what we learned is the typical corny sense of humor. (Erlene could be a Vietnamese comedian!)

The next day, Larry was the field liaison for the SAS Mekong Delta field program. Our tour guide was Phuong Nguyen and she said “just call me ‘Funny.’” (See photo below.) She, too, was playful. Both guides told us that the restroom is called the “Happy Room” because, after a visit to this room, what are you?! Happy!

Funny noted that the ubiquitous motorbikes (7 million in HCMC alone) are tiring. She pointed out the coffee shop hammocks along the roadside and explained that weary travelers could stop for a cup of coffee and rest “for as long as needed” in the hammocks.

Looking Around & Zen Traffic

On the last four days, we immersed in HCMC: visited art galleries and temples/shrines; attended a wonderful performance of Teh Dar at the historic Saigon Municipal Opera House; ate delicious food; and meandered through outdoor markets and indoor shops.

Mostly, we “simply looked around” at daily life. As Funny said, “Everybody works!” We saw lots of work, including entrepreneurs with boxes or small stalls with random items for sale. And, we saw rest and play. On sidewalks, we observed intergenerational groups playing cards, women getting pedicures, and men fishing near the Mong Bridge (designed by Gustave Eiffel, as in the tower!). We saw people napping on motorbikes, benches, shop floors, and hammocks. Constantly, we observed smiles, teasing, and a laid-back demeanor.

Zooming traffic, with rare traffic lights, is a defining characteristic of HCMC. (Google it!) Initially intimidated, we quickly realized the traffic is chaotic, but cooperative. Horns are constant—but, beeping, not blaring: “Beep! I’m here! Beep! Watch out!” No road rage. Crossing a street becomes a Zen experience of being one with the universe…or at least the frenetic flow of HCMC. (Note to self: Don’t try this at home!)

Coffee, Cashews, Coconut, Candy, Noodles, & Massages: What’s Not to Like?

Vietnam is known for its coffee! So, of course, we contributed to the local economy and drank our share. In addition to rice, they’re top producers of cashews and coconut. And, candy!

Along the highway from our Mekong Delta outing, we noted long stalls of items, with large billboards featuring two women. We conjectured they were prominent government or entertainment figures. Our guide clarified that they are the two Queens of Candy! She proudly conveyed that one of the women, Dac San, won a legal case against the Chinese for selling counterfeit candy (gasp!) and using her name.

Vietnam is known for its noodles and cheap, excellent massages; after getting daily massages we felt like we’d become Vietnamese noodles. (Corny humor!)

Paradise & Plastic; Litter & Literacy

Our Mekong Delta day trip began with a 2-hour bus ride through beautiful tropical green and numerous rice fields. Then, we visited Ben Tre, our guide’s home region. We walked through a small village and surrounding areas, with lush foliage, free-range chickens, and friendly residents. We had a coconut drink snack harvested directly from the tree; saw family-operated businesses, including candy-making, crafts, and woven mats; ate lunch (elephant ear fish!) in a rustic home; and toured a brick-making factory. Then, we rode in motorized vehicles to a rowboat ride through the tributary (Theme song: “Rolling, Rolling on the River!”). Finally, we took a larger boat for a relaxing and beautiful river excursion, back to the bus. Thankfully our return trip included a Happy Stop, before getting delayed in HCMC Tet traffic.

With great pride, Funny described the simple life of her home community, which she deemed “Paradise.” Then, she clearly articulated the encroaching negative impact of climate change, proliferation of plastic, and dams built upstream in China on the livelihood of this rural area. Flotsam was a common sight on this beautiful river. Sadly, litter is everywhere—streets, roadsides, and waterways.

Funny explained that her parents’ generation thought that plastic and other refuse disappeared when thrown in the river. She noted the country’s emphasis on increasing literacy (now 97.3%) and that part of her children’s education is about the environment. We learned from another guide that the Vietnam government has committed to becoming a world leader in wind and solar power. With the Vietnamese tenacity, increasing literacy rates, and not having to use resources to defend themselves against insurgents, this goal is attainable.

Peace & War; Consumerism & Poverty

Our interport lecturer, Ambassador Hoang Thuy, said that much of Vietnam’s history consists of “occupation and war.” He described the Vietnamese as forgiving and related this characteristic in part to their major religion of Buddhism. When we asked Funny about the resilience and playfulness of the Vietnamese, she smiled and said, “We are just so happy to not be at war!”

We were profoundly moved by our visit to the War Remnants Museum in HCMC. This museum provides an important record of the atrocities and human cost of war. The displays document the International War Crimes Tribunal’s conclusion that war crimes were committed by the United States in Vietnam. Other displays show the war protests around the world and peace efforts. We were deeply affected by this depiction of the dehumanization of war. We kept thinking of all the lives lost, souls damaged, long-term consequences—for both “sides.” We thought of the poor young people from rural areas, like those from the farming villages we visited on the Mekong delta, and Erlene’s brother who was drafted and went to Vietnam. He was sent to an unknown world far from our small farming community to a war primarily about capitalistic conquest.

In this war, as in all war, the common good “lost.” We must pursue paradigms for peace, not war; connections, not separations. Perhaps, simply looking around helps.

Shared Footbridges & Happy Buddhas

Each day in HCMC, we crossed a long footbridge to get to the main section of town. Each day, a disheveled man with a missing foot, who appeared homeless, greeted us with a smile and namaste blessing. On our last day, we wanted to spend our remaining Vietnamese money (a million dong is worth about $43, so, in Vietnam we were millionaires). After purchasing another massage, lunch, and ample snacks, we ambled toward the ship. We still had enough dong for two ice cream cones. Instead, we shared a cone. We gave our remaining money, along with a farewell blessing, to the man who had greeted us daily on our shared path.

Our six days in Vietnam confirmed that travel turns degrees of separation into degrees of connection. Our physical memento from Vietnam is a Happy Buddha we purchased at the War Remnants Museum. We’ll place Happy Buddha (HB) in our Happy Room (formerly known as bathroom) at home in honor of the Vietnamese humor. May we all be playful pacifists! And, may we simply look around, educate ourselves, notice how we can share with those on our paths, and save the planet. Namaste!

Happy New Year of the Pig from China

“All places no matter where, no matter what, are worth visiting.” Paul Theroux (The Tao of Travel)

We feel so fortunate to celebrate New Year’s twice this year! February 5th, we left Hong Kong, where the New Year of the Pig filled the city: festooned in auspicious red, celebratory festivities and rituals, and proliferation of pigs.

The world is an interesting and eclectic place. We fall in love with some places, like Japan, and yearn to go back. Other places, like China, we find compelling—but, not easy.

We visited China for three weeks in 2011, with a group through the WKU Confucius Institute. We stayed in Beijing, mainly, with a few days in Baoding. We scaled the Great Wall; met a renowned calligraphy artist who looked like Elvis; attended entertaining theatre performances; got amazing massages; tried exotic foods; took interesting classes on China history, culture, and language; enjoyed lotus garden tours. Oh, and crafts! (PSA: Erlene does not like doing crafts—whether made in China or elsewhere!).

That first China visit was made especially delightful by the people hosting us. In particular, Erlene connected with Li Bo and still stays in touch. But, in Beijing, we found the smog overwhelming and the crowded, noisy city difficult to navigate. We were glad our first encounter was a planned exchange.

Shanghai: The Same Population as the Entire Country of Australia

On this Voyage, we arrived in Shanghai early morning January 31st. The ship docked directly across from the downtown skyline for an incredible view. Shanghai is China’s largest city, with 24 million inhabitants.

Since we only had two days, we decided to participate in the day trips offered by Semester at Sea (SAS). In every port, SAS has field programs for any of the Voyagers (at reasonable costs). Staculty can serve as a field liaison on these trips and have their fee waived. On the first day, we visited Zhujiajiao, a water village about 1 ½ hours from Shanghai. Larry was the trip liaison. On the second day, a 2-hour bus ride took us to Suzhou, which is referred to as “the Venice of the East.” Because it was off-season, these sites had relatively small crowds. We took small boats on both tours. Hopefully, the pictures (below) give a sense of these experiences. Especially in Suzhou, the villages seem basic. We were left wondering about the daily lives of these folks whose habitats we “toured.” For example, the houses were tiny and we saw people doing laundry in the river. We also toured a silk factory—and shopping center.

Both days we were provided excellent lunches with a “Lazy Susan” dispensing an array of delicious traditional foods. The other folks on these tours were fun and flexible—and freezing! It was quite chilly and gray. So, we scurried around the sites and, then, basked in the familiar aroma, warmth, and toilets in Starbucks, our designated rendezvous. Shanghai has over 400 Starbucks! (Going from Japan’s heated toilet seats to China’s squatty potties with BYOTP was an adjustment.)

Our tour guide, Snow, was informative. And, he sang with, uh, enthusiasm, two “The Carpenters” songs…to a captive audience. Oh well, we got to experience karaoke, without having to go. After our day trip on Feb 1, we returned to our ship-home for an afternoon nap. Early evening, we braved the elements and spotty taxi service to find dinner and explore a shopping/walking area. Shopping is THE thing to do in Shanghai.

Hong Kong: Dim Sum, 37,000+ Steps, & Foot Massages

After “doing” Shanghai, most of the other voyagers opted for overland travel. We—along with a hundred others—opted to take the ship, arriving in Hong Kong on February 4. We left the ship about 10:00 and traipsed the city by foot, with brief jaunts on the subway and ferry. From an incense-filled temple to countless local shops, to towering high-rises, we navigated the crowded city. In the evening, we went to the Ladies Market and Temple Market—flea-markets, Chinese-style. Throughout the day, we stopped for tastings of Dim Sum.

The highlight of the day was when we popped into “Happy Feet.” Spa-like, it was not. The small living space had a few chairs for customers; an older guy, ensconced in one of them, watched the blaring television. The guy and two women providing massages greeted us; we got a 50-minute foot massage for 17 bucks. The guy and two women carried on chatty repartee the entire time. At first, it was distracting. But, quickly, we just closed our eyes, and gave ourselves over to the soundtrack of Hong Kong and the ministrations of Happy Feet experts.

Day Two, we decided to get our TREE fix! Although hidden by the ultra-urban landscape, Hong Kong is actually 70% green space. We found nearby Kowloon Park and meandered for a couple of hours. We were pleased to see many folks enjoying this green oasis amidst this gritty environment. We watched a man fluidly practicing Tai Chi and decided we must try it again. After the park, we walked around the city a bit more. We stopped for a late, leisurely lunch at a restaurant packed with locals exchanging new year’s presents, pleasantries, and pig wishes. We had tasty, medicinal hot and sour soup! We ended our time in Hong Kong with our souvenirs of tasty snacks and serene soles! This time, we went to “Reflexology,” where world peace begins: one foot massage at a time.

That evening, SASers gathered for dinner to share travel stories. Then, we greeted the Pig New Year with watching the glittering lights of Hong Kong recede, as we left the dock to sail our Ocean home.

Shopping, Skyscrapers, & Smog

Honestly, although we are grateful for a taste of China and glad for the connections, China is not really our cup of tea. Shanghai is the most modern city in China, with a skyline of architectural wonders. Similarly, Hong Kong has an impressive skyline.

Both Shanghai and Hong Kong are shopping capitals of the world! According to a guidebook, Chinese shoppers constitute 47 percent of the global luxury goods market. The rest of China calls Shanghainese “little capitalists.” Literally, in Hong Kong, when we stepped off the ship we were IN a high-end mall. The consumerism juxtaposed with the poverty of many is overwhelming.

Our main association of China is the lovely people we met in Beijing and came to care about. And, we would go a long way for those foot massages. However, the pall of smog permeates our experience. Unchecked consumerism and greed have terrible consequences.

Connections are Complicated & Crucial

In our earlier blog post, we wrote about the climate crisis and the urgent need to protect Mothers Earth and Ocean. In our professional roles, we promote the paradigm of meta-practice in social work, which emphasizes that poverty and consumerism are connected. Consumerism and environmental degradation are connected. Our demand for cheap goods enables the production of stuff –without adequate attention to the environmental impact, fair wages, or other justice considerations. Our friends in China bear a disproportionate brunt of the unjust costs in health and other negative consequences. We, the consumers and global citizens, share the responsibility to change this cycle.

Our New Year’s gift to all of you is that we are NOT buying you New Year’s pigs as mementos from our trips! Instead, we hope we are sharing with you the richness of travel and connecting our world. In the new year, we recommit to gifts of connection, not consumerism

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Keeping it Real

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“Travel is intense living.” Rick Steves

The above Rick Steves quote is a truism that we embrace. Often when we travel, especially with student groups, people in the group remark, “Well, when we get back to reality…” This statement is usually made in the context of a significant, meaningful, enjoyable, or otherwise intense experience.

Always, we remind folks that travel is real. Actually, some of our most “real” experiences have occurred when traveling.

Routine is Not the Only Reality

In The Joys of Travel, Swick (2018) lists “break from routine,” as one of the joys of travel. He writes that in travel, you are “always learning and constantly caught off guard” (p. 34). He continues that travel makes one “vulnerable, [As you are]…leaving home and wandering sumptuously among imperfect strangers.” (p 31). In our Semester at Sea (SAS) Global Studies course, the professor Ken Cushner observed that connecting across cultures requires being comfortable with ambiguity. Hmm…Perhaps travel reveals new, co-existing “realities.”

We’ve realized that people think travel isn’t real because we mistake “everyday routine” for the essence of reality. That’s just not true. Both are real.

Swick also observes that a break from routine “is a joy that can also be a hurdle.” (p. 32). When we travel, as creatures of habit, we usually establish some routines. And, we have routines that are both particular to travel and similar to home. For instance, when traveling, Larry often awakens early and goes foraging for caffeine and checking out the environs, before Erlene arises. Back home, Larry gets up early, makes coffee, and reads newspapers to see what’s happening in the world. In both these realities, Larry is the early bird who “gets the worm.” And, Erlene is a lucky woman who gets to sleep late and prefers coffee to worms. Habitually, we try to accept and appreciate the full reality of both home and travel.

Delay & Nuisance; Sickness & Health

Swick cites another travel writer, Paul Theroux, as saying half of travel is “delay or nuisance.” In their debriefing reflections about their Japan experiences, students shared about walking for hours trying to find their B&B; ordering food that was not what they thought; and having conflict with travel partners.

In our wedding vows we pledged to travel the world, together. Also, we pledged to support one another in sickness and in health. Real life, i.e., travel includes sickness. For a few days prior to disembarking in Japan, travel got real in that way. Like many places in the world, the ship is experiencing winter illnesses. For several days, Erlene dealt with a cold. She felt really awful for a couple of days. Then, Larry got sick and ended up going to the clinic to see our wonderful Ship Doc Megan Reitz. Larry had a fever and was put in “time out” for 24 hours until the fever subsided. In travel/life, sometimes the body just needs to rest. So, we did. Sleep is universal medicine.

Really—Life is a Journey!

So, travel is not all happy-go-lucky. It includes mundane delay, aggravating nuisance, icky sickness, and more. It also includes once-in-a-lifetime adventures, serendipitous opportunities, and extraordinary experiences. So, we try to include routine reality into our travel and interweave travel reality into our home routine.

For instance, we started routinely enjoying wine years ago in part because it evokes travel for us. When we prepare a meal at home and pair it with wine from France or Spain or another country we’ve visited, we savor drinking the soil of that country. We taste the memories of our travels. When we read in the news about the happenings in New Zealand or Bolivia, we think of the people we met there who reside in our hearts. We collect art from our travels. At home, our daily routine evokes images of Peru, China, and other places we’ve traveled. All of these routinely remind us that life is a journey.

In other words, travel is REAL LIFE, ya’ll. Live it!